The Whiskey Reviewer A World of Whiskey, Poured Every Weekday
By Richard Thomas
The Russells and their new factory
(Credit: Richard Thomas)
Wherever they happen to be found around the world, distilleries come in two broad categories: the pretty ones and the factories. Not everything fits tidily into those two baskets; Buffalo Trace is certainly a factory, but it’s antique character and location on the Kentucky riverfront make it an attractive factory indeed.
Lawrenceburg, Kentucky’s Austin Nichols Distiller, aka Wild Turkey, is a particularly modern example of a factory, having been the beneficiary of $100 million in investment from parent company Campari. The result of this corporate largesse jumps out at the visitor as they drive to the parking lot. Perched on the surrounding hills are a series of traditional Kentucky bourbon rickhouses, each several stories high. Yet the rest of the complex has the clean appearance of a brand new industrial plant, for that is exactly what it is.
The Wild Turkey still:
no pretenses
(Credit: Richard Thomas)
Visitors will find that the well-used column still isn’t regularly polished for visitors, making it look far older than it actually is. It’s a practical piece of whiskey-making machinery, more for use than for show. The barrel filling plant, bottling line, fermenters and other aspects of the distillery operation are all ultra-modern, in my experience most akin to the Tullamore Dew Distillery that opened only last year.
Tourists will learn much about Wild Turkey and bourbon generally, but make no mistake, at Wild Turkey the visitor experience puts industry at the forefront. The essence of this place is that it’s built for the business of bourbon, and with one exception show doesn’t come very far into it.
Just as the rickhouses contrast against the sleekly up-to-date plant, however, the Visitor Center and the location of the distillery itself contrast against the factory part of the tour. Designed to look like a rickhouse (in my mind, it bears a closer resemblance to a horse barn), the building offers airy spaces for a gift shop, tasting room and historical displays, telling the tale of Wild Turkey.
Perched on the high bluffs of the Kentucky River
(Credit: Richard Thomas)
Best of all, the Visitor Center takes full advantage of Wild Turkey’s location, perched on the scenic bluffs of the Kentucky River Palisades. From the back porch, you can take in a panorama of lush green hillsides lining a plunging gorge, and the overlook of the bridges crossing the river. I first crossed those bridges and laid eyes on Wild Turkey as a nine year old, and have long considered it the most gorgeous environment enjoyed by an distillery in Kentucky.
If the weather is nice, treat yourself and take your Turkey outside. For sipping, the view can’t be beat.
