By Richard Thomas
The latest product from the Old Pogue Distillery in Maysville, Kentucky, Old Maysville Club is the evolution of their Five Fathers. These are both revivals of Pogue distillery brands, and both based on an old Pogue recipe calling for 100% malted rye. The two year old Five Fathers met with decidedly mixed reviews, but Old Maysville Club is a very different creature.
With two more years in the full-sized barrels, Old Maysville Club is a Bottled in Bond whiskey. As per those guidelines, it’s four years old, all from the same distilling season and distillery, matured in a bonded warehouse, and bottled at 100 proof. Compared to Five Fathers, the extra two years and the cut of 10 proof make a world of difference.
In the glass, the whiskey cuts a very light amber coloring look, like gold with a copper wash. That said, the swish puts a thick, sticky coating on the inside of the glass, one that drops legs so reluctantly and slowly, and with such heavy drops, that I describe it as more of a crown than legs.
The nose is like toasted pumpernickel bread, with a whiff of mustiness akin to an old grain bin, and a fruity sweet note. A sip grants a current of rye spiciness, restrained by a wallop of toasty grain, and with a little nibble of dried apricot coming up at the end. The mouthfeel on this one, as suggested by the coat in the glass, is quite thick and oily. The finish is a touch spicy, but overall it’s a gentle and lasting experience.
The main thing about Old Maysville Club is that it’s both old fashioned and novel at the same time. It is made in a pot still and aged down around Bardstown in 53 gallon, new white oak barrels. Yet at the same time, you don’t see 100% malted rye whiskeys around these days. It’s straightforward, enjoyable stuff, but the mash bill gives it the quality of novelty. Go check it out if you can!
The problem there is you probably can’t check it out. Binny’s has it, but otherwise you will only find it through Kentucky retailers and at the distillery. The price tag is $65.