Port Askaig 8 Year Old Scotch Review

By Andrew Graham

Rating: B+

Saying Islay whisky is known for peat and smoke is like saying the newest iPhone is known for its screen. While, yes, that is its most obvious and dominant feature, it takes many different things working together behind the scenes to create the distinct and specific experience one enjoys and learns to expect.

Port Askaig the place, on the northern coast of Islay, is one of the two ports that provides access to the island. Port Askaig the whisky reportedly comes from the Caol Ila Distillery—either the independent bottler Elixir Distillers prefer not to advertise this for whatever reason or they don’t think it matters—and offers multiple single-malt expressions. I attended a tasting some months ago, and I can attest to the fact that they seem to take tradition incredibly seriously.

I’ve since had some time with the Port Asking 8 Year, new to the U.S. market as of June. It’s a single malt, of course, aged in refill American oak, featuring 45.8% ABV and bottled without chill filtration, and with no added coloring.

To me, this beverage has two distinct personalities: it’s a showboat at first, and then it’s the most conciliatory. Let me explain.

The Scotch

Color: Honeyed water. I had to do a double-take to discern whether it had any color at all. It does, but not much.

Nose: This one has some swagger in the glass, which starts with the color. On the nose, it presents an appropriate amount of smoke, with sweeter, citrus-forward notes including burnt brown sugar, apple, honey, and lemon peel behind it. A bit of oatmeal. A slightly charred apple pie. These are all pretty apparent.

Flavor:  It is unmistakably Islay: straightforwardly mineral-rich and peaty, with slight, pleasant notes of citrus and burnt honey that follow logically from the nose. The smoke is not heavy, per se, but it is obvious. It is not overly complex, and I write that as a compliment.

For a beverage that shows off a bit in the glass, it’s honest and straightforward in the mouth. Maybe this makes sense in a way. Because I am highly averse to bullshit, I love the way this beverage looks — not adding color, to me, is the most proper and confident way to present a whisky. And though there are some things going on on the nose, nothing dominates the palate beyond what’s initially advertised. It’s quite balanced. It’s not a citrusy Islay or a sweeter Islay. It’s an Islay.

Finish: It isn’t hot, and nothing lingers. There is no clingy mouthfeel, as some of the other Islays present. It politely says goodbye and then leaves.

If there’s anything wrong with this beverage, it’s that it is too short.

Personally, I like whisky that finishes with some heat. But that’s just a person preference, probably an uncommon one, and it says nothing important about the attentiveness and care that went into crafting the Port Askaig 8 Year. It’s an honest and safe whisky, with nothing extra, which is probably deceptively difficult to make but very easy to drink.

The Price
This is the youngest whisky in the Port Asking lineup and retails for around $65.