Knob Creek Small Batch Bourbon Review (NAS)

By Richard Thomas

Rating: B

When I wrote an article comparing the classic 9 year old Knob Creek to its No Age Statement (NAS) replacement a few weeks ago, I paused to consider whether I wanted to review Knob Creek NAS on its own. I kept thinking it over until I sat down on Thanksgiving morning to attend to some work, and finally decided “yes.”

The indecision was rooted in the simple fact that Knob Creek NAS won’t be with us for much longer. Jim Beam Master Distiller Fred Noe announced at a sales meeting earlier this year that the company would bring back the 9 year old version sometime in early 2020. Given that Beam doesn’t have the track record for playing bait and switch with its promises, the only doubtful part of that statement is just how early is early.

So, Knob Creek NAS won’t be with us much longer, and few if any enthusiasts will be sorry to see it go, given their clear preferences for older expressions and the way things used to be. Reviewing an expression that will be gone in perhaps half a year and won’t be missed strikes the practical side of me as a waste of time. Yet Knob Creek NAS is a bourbon with merits all its own, and I suspect the expression might become something like a “New Coke,” with a handful of devotees who prefer it to the original and will continue on with that preference for years.

My own feelings on the matter are that the 9 year old was my drinking pal for 20 years and I’m glad I don’t need to eek out my stashed bottles, but I appreciated the NAS as well. So, for those of you who prefer the NAS, I get where you’re coming from, I’m never going to look down on you, and this review is for you.

The Bourbon
A pour of 100 proof Knob Creek has the mid-amber appearance one expects of any respectable bourbon. Coating the glass puts down a clear, solid sheet of liquid, one that soon forms a rim of crenellations. That feature is a much bigger part of the look than the legs, which are few and not particularly substantial.

I found the scent to lead with its woody side, packing spices and cedar atop a thick foundation of caramel. Flavor-wise, the whiskey changes up to lead with the traditional brown sugar and candy corn plus vanilla sweetness, accented by spice and wood. The woody note continues to smack of cedar, while the spiciness leans heavily on mint. The finish is relatively mild, lingering with mint and cedar.

This NAS spin on Knob Creek remains big and flavorful, but it’s sweeter than it’s older counterpart. Making my comparison, I was given to wonder if Fred Noe’s crew at Jim Beam didn’t make the move to NAS with that very thing in mind. Since I was there at the time, I’ll tell you: bourbon drinkers were a very different and smaller group of people in the early 1990s, when Knob Creek was introduced, than they are now. I firmly believe Knob Creek NAS is more in keeping with the palates of what casual drinkers and newcomer enthusiasts like… hence why I believe a few of them might become like the New Coke devotees.

The Price
Knob Creek can usually be found for about $33. However, some of the big liquor retailers mark it down as low as $20, the same price point as many bottom shelf whiskeys. If you can grab it at that price, sock away some bottles for the future!