Woodford Reserve Master’s Collection Proof Bourbon Review

By Richard Thomas

Rating: A-

At an early stage this year, Woodford Reserve released a third round of its whiskey at batch proof as part of its annual Master’s Collection. So, doing a batch proof release is now an annual, limited edition thing and part of the continuing Master’s Collection.

In all respects except the proof statement and the bottle stock, this is the same bourbon as Woodford Reserve. Instead of the 90.4 standard for the Woodford line, Batch Proof came in for 2020 at a whopping 123.6.

It’s a murky issue whether either Elijah Craig Barrel Proof, Maker’s Mark Cask Strength or Woodford Reserve Batch Proof is blended in a fashion to stay squarely on the flavor profile of the original expression, however. Drawing from the same stock isn’t enough; the blender’s art is needed to ensure consistency from batch to batch. Adjusting the proof is sufficient on its own to make two whiskeys coming from the same batch taste somewhat differently, as anyone who did a side-by-side comparison of Maker’s Mark back when they made their aborted effort to dial down the proof in 2013 knows.

Leaving all that aside, it’s Woodford Reserve, but stronger. My Deputy Editor, Kurt Maitland, is fond of saying that upping the proof makes for better whiskey, and in this case I’m inclined to agree.

The Bourbon
The whiskey has a deep, rich coloring, but one that is still in the middle of the amber spectrum. Basically, it’s not too red or too brown, so it is neither light or dark, but still looks like it’s got plenty of color to it.

The nose wasn’t hot, but it was too crowded, and thus overpowering. So, I decided it needed a few drops of water right off the bat, and that greatly helped to untangle the jam. The nose was fruity, with cherry, banana and coconut notes, with plenty of vanilla to round out the sweet side. This was joined by an earthy, leathery aspect, as well as some spicy, toasty oak. Essentially, it came over a lot like normal Woodford does (or even Old Forester in some respects), except for the earthy and leathery part.

The party starts off sweet with the first sip, plus a nutty note that joins from the get-go. However, this evolves into something more bitter, earthy and leathery as the flavor develops, with the latter aspect being what rolls into the finish. It winds down quite earthy, a little dry and a little tannic, and in such a way that it reminded me more of certain Irish and Scottish malts I’ve had than an American whiskey.

By and large, it’s a fuller-bodied, richer spin on Woodford Reserve, which is what anyone should expect. The increase in proof brings out different notes (I did not dial it down anywhere near to 90.4 with just a few drops of water), but Woodford it remains.

The Price
A bottle of Batch Proof will set you back $130. Seeing as how Woodford Reserve Master’s Collection remains the most unsung of the well-established limited edition lines, you can probably pick up a bottle at that price point.