Old Forester 117 High Angel’s Share Barrels Bourbon Review
By Richard Thomas
Rating: A-
(Credit: Brown-Forman)
The latest release from Old Forester showcases the talents of their celebrated Master Taster, Jackie Zykan. Although Zykan has had her hand in many expressions from the brand since coming on as lead taster, this is the first one that has her signature — and just her signature — on the bottle. It’s Zykan’s own Old Forester, so to speak.
Here Zykan is focusing on what I like to call “cooked” barrels: the stuff that took a lot of dry heat in the rickhouse, so the angels took a very outsized share due to evaporation. This is the first batch in a series that will showcase many of the ins and outs of the bourbon production process, and–in keeping with its nature–was bottled at a high strength of 110 proof.
The Bourbon
Cooked barrels such as these have drawn a great deal from the oak, and 117 Batch 01 was bottled at 55% ABV, so it’s not surprising at all that the whiskey as a dark amber look to it. It’s not quite the coloring of maple syrup, but it’s not far off.
The nose was a bit outside what I expect from Old Forester, coming on dried cherries, caramel, peanut butter and two different, intertwined currents of wood: pine needles and dry, leathery oak. The flavor carried all those notes, but with the vanilla/caramel note taking the lead and running much more strongly throughout. The finish goes down as a trace of spiced cherry syrup.
Old Forester 117 Batch 01 isn’t a big-bodied whiskey, but it packs loads of flavor. It is so flavorful, in fact, that I wouldn’t exactly call it complex, but the combination of elements shows some sophistication worthy of a sipper’s consideration. Usually barrels that see a high angel’s share come from the top floor or two of a rickhouse, especially one that is clad in wood or tin, and I would be surprised if none of the barrels used here were from a perch like that. It’s a worthy showcase of how a high rate of evaporation can mature a bourbon, and a great first solo outing for Zykan.
The Price
Officially, this should fetch $50.
