George Dickel Bottled in Bond Tennessee Whiskey Review (2021)
By Richard Thomas
Rating: A
This is the third outing for the George Dickel Bottled in Bond series as created by Master Distiller Nicole Austin. At 13 years old, it is well beyond the statutory minimum for a bonded whiskey and two years older than last year’s release, but otherwise drawn the same staple stock of Dickel Tennessee Whiskey. Which is to say, made from a high corn mash of 84% with an almost token 8% rye and a reasonable 8% malted barley, with the new make chilled and filtered through sugar maple charcoal prior to barreling. The batch is also reportedly the largest yet from the series, although no official bottle count has appeared.
Prior to Austin’s coming aboard at Cascade Hollow, I was unimpressed by Dickel’s older offerings, such as 2016’s 17 year old. This was so much the case that it gave credence to my theory that while the Lincoln County Process (charcoal filtration prior to barreling) is the original aging shortcut and an effective one at that, it removes certain trace elements needed in the chemistry of long term maturation. I don’t look at anything Austin has done as disproving that, but only because thus far her age statement releases have all sat in the middle aged category, albeit sometimes the upper reaches of it (like the Dickel 15 Year Old Single Barrel I haven’t tried). I already knew Dickel’s house style could yield wonderful middle aged whiskey, and Austin has put her own particular polish on that, taking things older and farther.
The Whiskey
I loved last year’s Dickel BiB, and at the price they were offering it for, it was the killer bargain in American whiskey that year. This year’s installment demands I double down on that statement. It’s better and only slightly more expensive.
A pour comes across as middle amber, not too dark considering it’s age and 100 proof. The nose takes Dickel’s sweet side, with its vanilla and maple, and endows it with a Life Saver’s orange-like citrus scent, and an earthy, woody current that is best described as freshly split pine and oak logs dropped on a earthen shed floor. The flavor takes that profile and veers off towards the earthy, woody side some more, but not so far that it loses it’s sweet side. The logs turned to charred, dry oak staves, and the earthy side compliments the vanilla and maple more by becoming an especially thick nougat. The finish leaves the char behind and rolls off that dry, spicy oak.
The Price
A bottle of George Dickel Bottled in Bond 2021 costs a mere $45, assuming recommended pricing.