Midleton Very Rare Irish Whiskey Review (2022)
By Emma Briones
Rating: B+
There are only a few whiskeys that can be proud to have been releasing a high-end limited edition for almost 40 years. But Barry Crockett, ahead of his time, went for it in 1984 when there were barely a couple of distilleries in Ireland. Thanks to his drive and enthusiasm, today I have before me the 39th edition of what they say is the pinnacle of Irish whiskey: Midleton Very Rare 2022.
In his second edition as Master Distiller, Kevin O’Gorman once again bets on a whiskey in which the grain element is more present. However, the single pot still maintains the character of this Irish classic. O’Gorman has selected grain whiskeys from 1989, with floral notes, as well as pot-still from 2009 to give it a citrusy touch.
As always, Midleton Very Rare 2022 is a blend of Single Pot Still and Single Grain. But in this edition, the whiskeys that compose it range from 12 to 33 years. All have been aged in a mix of first-fill and second-fill barrels, all lightly charred American oak ex-bourbon. It has been bottled at 40% ABV.
The Whiskey
Although the Midleton Very Rare bottle has evolved over the years, Midleton Very Rare 2022 maintains the clean and modern style of the latest editions. For the second time, it shows Kevin O’Gorman’s signature on the label. In the glass, the whiskey is coppery gold.
On the nose, it is creamy and fresh, very fruity. There are notes of vanilla, milk chocolate, and honey. We also find aromas of peach and banana, accompanied by caramelized green apple. There is a herbaceous side to it, much more floral. Essential oils, bergamot. The return to the sweet aromas of cake and pastry cream.
With a creamy texture, it is soft and somewhat oily on the palate. Slowly, the classic notes of the ex-bourbon barrel come to the forefront. There’s an explosion of custard, with intense notes of vanilla and burnt sugar. Ripe fruit, with intense notes of apple and lemon, but also banana and mango. A spicy touch of ginger and pepper, with a slight hint of nutmeg. The finish is elongated, balancing the remains of spices and vanilla.
There’s maybe a handful of whiskeys that can maintain such a high-quality standard for almost 40 years. Luckily for me, I’ve tried almost half of the Midleton Very Rare expressions. And, although they all follow the same initial idea (Single Pot Still and Single Grain in American oak barrels), each one has its own style. Middleton Very Rare 2022 has character and good balance. O’Gorman has managed to maintain that fine line of balance and smoothness that is expected of this expression. It is not among my favorite expressions of Midleton Very Rare (1996, 1997, 2000, and 2021) because it lacks the depth that I found in those. But it is still a must-have bottle. I believe that It’s actually impossible to refuse to enjoy a glass of Midleton Very Rare.
The Price
Midleton Very Rare 2022 is available online and in specialist retailers in the UK, US, Australia, Europe & Asia. It is retailed at €200 ($218).