Suntory Ao World Whiskey Review
By Richard Thomas
Rating: A-
(Credit: Suntory)
Hybrid whiskeys were quite the thing several years ago. This category includes any blend made from two or more distinct types of whiskey, with the first major example in the United States probably being the reportedly accidental creation of Wild Turkey Forgiven, a bourbon-rye hybrid. Virginia Distilling Company’s initial line was composed entirely of American Malt-Scottish Malt hybrids.
The notion isn’t buzzing the way that it used to be, but that doesn’t mean it is dead, especially at Beam-Suntory. Building on Jim Beam Kentucky Dram and the limited edition series Little Book (the first two were hybrids), Suntory released a truly global, company-encompassing hybrid of their own last year. Beam Suntory has been doing synergetic things like this in recent years (the excellent Japanese blended, Kentucky bourbon Legent comes to mind), and now they have pulled all corners of their whiskey conglomerate into play–America, Canada, Ireland, Japan and Scotland–and given them over to Suntory Master Blender Shinji Fukuyo. The Yamazaki and The Hakushu; Ardmore and Glen Garioch; Jim Beam; Cooley; and Alberta Distillers.
The word “Ao’ is Japanese for blue, and is so named for the blue oceans that tie the constituents together. It’s bottled at 45% ABV.
The Whiskey
Keeping in mind what whiskeys from three of the five countries in question typically look like, I wasn’t surprised when Ao took a golden look in the glass. The nose had a citrus, apple and honey current to it that was quite reminiscent of Irish Whiskey, but with a richness that relatively light style usually lacks. Accenting this sweet core was a hefty note of hoary old oak and a seasoning of sandalwood.
The flavor built on this vein, giving me cause to think of cider blended into mulled wine, but with an earthy, woody and ashy tinge. As a sipping whiskey, Ao is a complex, but fully approachable wonder of the world. The finish shed much of this, running spicy before turning dry.
The Price
Expect to pay $71. Given that this item is affordable, good and exotic, there is no reason to not have a bottle on the shelf except for pure lack of curiosity.
