Sneak Peek: Benriach The Forty Scotch Review

By Richard Thomas

Rating: A

Benriach Distillery is expanding its lineup of ultra-aged single malts in the United States with “The Forty.” That name is the age statement, so forty years old, but it is more than a forty year old Speyside single malt. The whisky was initially “released” in 2022 as part of an NFT scheme, but we’ll overlook that and focus squarely on the liquid, since the liquid is now physically available. Master Blender Rachel Barrie has drawn on these malts that are old enough to fret about retirement, aged in a combination of ex-bourbon barrels and Port casks. The resulting marriage has been bottled at 43.5% ABV.

The Scotch
I find that older Scotch doesn’t necessarily mean darker Scotch, which has a lot to do with the wood its matured in. Students of bourbon whiskey know that all of the color comes from the new oak aging, and the various kinds of vessels Scotch whisky is aged in could be used two, three or even more times. Thus, when this forty year-plus old single malt came out with a middle amber coloring to it, I take that as a good sign the bourbon and Port casks were mostly or entirely of the first-fill variety.

The nose was packed with plum and citrus zest, thickly layered atop a solid foundation of honey. Hints of earthy nuts and heather round out the scent, which is luscious and should be lingered upon every bit as much as the flavor.

The palate leads with fortified wine elements, coming across with plums, chocolate-covered dried cherries and white peaches. That honeyed foundation continues from the scent into the flavor, and its only on the back-end that all this sophisticated, rich sweetness drops away. The finish rolls up with a current of dry wood, but only briefly, before folding into the flavor of dried tobacco leaf.

I honestly can’t say The Forty is worth the price on offer, for the same reason I can never say a four figures-plus bottle of whisky is worth it: I don’t have four figures of cash to spend on a consumable item of this kind. But if you do have that kind of disposable income, this is a fine bottle to consider picking up.

The Price
The asking price for Benriach The Forty is $4,500.