Redbreast 18 Year Old Irish Whiskey Review
By Richard Thomas
Rating: A-
(Credit: Irish Distillers)
New Midleton is solely responsible for keeping the legacy of Irish pot still whiskey, based on a mix of malted and unmalted barley, alive. Although that style of whiskey figures in most everything they make, it was the re-launch of the brand Redbreast in 1991 that was instrumental in reviving the distinctively Irish identity of single pot still whiskey for the modern drinker. Now New Midleton has put a new rung on the Redbreast ladder, this time in the middle: Redbreast 18 Year Old.
Single pot still whiskey is a spin-off from the single malt whiskey being made in Ireland up until 1785, when the British Crown made another effort at profiting off the hard work of the Irish people by slapping a tax on malted barley. The distillers partly dodged this tax by using the characteristic unmalted and malted barley mix (sometimes with other grains too) that characterized Irish Whiskey through its 19th Century heyday. At New Midleton, they make a few different versions of pot still whiskey, and all of it is triple distilled. But like single malt, it all comes from the same plant.
This whiskey was aged in a variety of cask stocks: ex-bourbon barrels, Oloroso Sherry casks, Ruby Port pipes, and (this is the unusual kicker choice) Cream Sherry casks. Master Blender Dave McCabe said of the latter choice, “By incorporating cream sherry casks, we’ve created a whiskey that boasts a rich profile of dark chocolate, blackcurrants, and hazelnuts.” This middle-aged Redbreast was bottled at 46% ABV.
The Whiskey
My pour took on a dull, light amber look in the Glencairn. I found the nose to have a current of that pumpernickel and molasses that one so often finds in the American malted ryes. But there was also an earthy, nutty side to the whiskey, as well as a note of lemon zest and a robust spiciness. The palate opened rather woody, but not unduly so, before returning to a cocoa and nutty earthiness combined with boozy dark berries spiced with cinnamon. That turns peppery on the back end, before rolling into a better balanced berries-cum-cinnamon finish.
The Price
Redbreast 18 Year Old should fetch $250 a bottle.
