Larceny Cask Strength Bourbon Review (C924)

By Richard Thomas

Rating: B+

For the last decade, Pappymania has crowded out enthusiast attention for wheated bourbons not made at a certain riverside distillery in Frankfort, Kentucky. As Pappy Van Winkle gained popular renown, extending outside bourbon circles, a fever started building. First that fever swept up the other wheated bourbons (the Weller bourbons) made by Buffalo Trace, before building and expanding to make 1) everything Weller dear and unobtainable; and 2) to make everything else Buffalo Trace makes scarce.

This is a widely observed phenomenon, but less commented upon is how the fever for Trace’s wheated bourbon has overshadowed the otherwise fine wheated bourbons made by other Kentucky distillers, such as Maker’s Mark and the wheated bourbon made by Heaven Hill. The latter bourbon is Larceny. It’s not so much that Larceny languishes in obscurity, because it does sell, but one never sees much buzz about it. Although it no doubt frustrates the Heaven Hill folks at least a little, I’m glad the rubes continue to fixate on Trace and ignore bourbons like this. It means the people capable of learning new information and thinking critically win out, and they deserve the win.

Maybe that is why Heaven Hill gave the look of the brand a facelift last year. Batch C924 (as per Heaven Hill code, that is annual batch 3, September 2024) was the first to sport it. I don’t write up every single batch of Heaven Hill’s barrel proof releases that come down the pike, but this occasion certainly calls for it.

Heaven Hill’s Bernheim-made wheated bourbon comes from a 68% corn, 20% wheat, 12% malted barley mash bill, and is made in a fairly conventional, Kentucky Major fashion. There is no age statement, but it’s maturation runs between 6 to 8 years, and this batch came out at 125.1 proof.

The Bourbon
Even with the splash of water I added, the liquid retained a bright, middle amber appearance in my copita glass. The nose ran up with the customary brown sugar and vanilla first, accompanied by a spice blend of cinnamon, ginger and clove. Behind that is a handful of toasted oak shavings and a hint of nuts.

The palate opens with that same standard bourbon, brown sugar and vanilla at center stage, but now it has a floral handful of assorted dried berries in its company. Behind that is the same cinnamon, ginger and clove blend, but now paired with an earthy, tannic cocoa-like note. The finish returned to the supporting notes of the nose, running woody and nutty.

The Price
Again, it’s amazing (and fortunate for consumers willing to look past the herd mentality) that a bottle like Larceny Barrel Proof doesn’t get more attention, especially when a batch comes out like this one did. The official price is a mere $65, and you’ll probably even pay that when you find a bottle. Moreover, it’s February and I know C924 is still out there to be had.