Fanged Pursuit 17 Year Old Bourbon Review
By Richard Thomas
Rating: A-
(Credit: Diageo)
In the latest release from its Orphan Barrel series, drink conglomerate Diageo returns the series to its roots by delivering an ultra-aged bourbon in the form of Fanged Pursuit 17 Year Old. The word about how Diageo sourced this is obscure, but the company says it came from two separate Kentucky distilleries. Rather than present an aggregate mash bill, as so many others do, they curiously stated the source mashes in a range. How one chooses to read that is purely speculative, but the firm and factual point is both bourbon sources were of a traditional rye mash bill. The resulting blend was bottled at 92 proof and with no chill filtration.
The image on the bottle and name are inspired by the Kentucky wildcat. I appreciate the choice very much, but I must confess when I first saw it my thoughts turned to “I never thought the leopards would eat my face” meme. I suppose that may be merely reflective of where my head is lately, but it’s worth remembering many a bourbon croaker has had nothing but scorn for Orphan Barrel, and most of the folks who took their advice have regretted not snagging a bottle of pretty damn good, pretty damn old bourbon at a good price.
The Bourbon
The pour came out in the glass with a bright, middle amber coloring. The nose leads with its fruitiness: cherries and orange-infused oil, spiced with clove, cinnamon and peppermint. Coming up behind that is some earthy caramel of the type one gets from an artisanal candy shop.
From there, the liquid has a light-but-creamy texture, and on the palate it flips the script and leads with its spicy side. The peppermint is up front, followed by an oaky kick. Rolling in behind that is a floral citrus note, then a splash of vanilla combined with sweet pipe tobacco. The finish rolls off this sweet closing to turn first nutty and spicy, and then dry, woody and spicy.
The Price
The suggested retail price is $200. If you can afford it and find it at that price point, you would be a fool not to buy this bottle.
