Johnnie Walker Black Cask Scotch Review

By Richard Thomas

Rating: B

If Johnnie Walker Red is the entry-level rung of the world’s best selling and most ubiquitous blended Scotch Whisky and Walker Green is the middle rung, the bread and butter of the company’s line-up is Johnnie Walker Black. When Johnnie Walker wants to do a brand extension within one of its existing offerings, it goes to Black. The company did this 15 years ago, when it introduced Johnnie Walker Double Black. That expression has now been around for so long that it is hard to remember when it wasn’t, but it took Walker Black in a smokier, peatier direction.

Now comes Johnnie Walker Black Cask, which goes in the opposite direction. This expression is designed specifically to address the popular question of what is a good Scotch Whisky to use as a gateway for bourbon drinkers. Although my answer to that question is to reach for Sherry bomb Scotch, especially PX cask aged Scotch, the folks at Diageo (parent company of Johnnie Walker) have gone a different route. They’ve gone for an all ex-bourbon barrel aged whisky, leaning especially on grain whisky from Cameronbridge, and malts from Glen Elgin and Roseisle.

The Scotch
My pour took on a golden look in the glass. The whisky was bottled at 43% ABV, slightly higher than the 40% minimum that is so often the norm for Walker whiskies.

I though the nose was fruity and seasoned, like a dish of baked apple (with the pie spices, of course) topped with a toss of raspberries. This is served on a platter of charred oak, so despite the intent, the whisky retains a hit of something burning, although it is as much musty as smoky. Enough nosing brought up a chocolate and caramel candy note as well.

The mouthfeel is silky, leading with flavors of honey and vanilla. From there sipping builds up some candy corn and chocolate bar, before rolling over into moderately spicy wood. The finish is actually quite balanced, bringing together spicy, woody and ashy notes in tandem.

The intent here is to appeal to bourbon drinkers, which leaves me to wonder what Diageo’s market research actually said about what bourbon drinkers want. I have been talking to them about the question of a gateway Scotch for 15 years now, and the number one aspect of Scotch that turns off all its not-fans is smoke. Therefore, one would think they would put Black Cask on a path that took it far, far away from any hint of char, ash or smoke. Compared to Walker Black and especially Walker Double Black, the smoke here is absolutely subdued, but not avoided.

Given that there are so, so many bottlings of Scotch Whisky that lack even a hint of smoke, the char and ash make me scratch my head. This is an acceptable expression, but I believe it has missed its target audience by a yard.

The Price
One thing that is not a miss for Johnny Walker Black Cask is the price: just $35 MSRP.