New Riff Red Turkey Botted in Bond Bourbon Review

By Richard Thomas

Rating: B+

Newport’s New Riff Distilling is riding more waves of novelty than just those names. The distillery is part of a new class of medium-sized distilleries in Kentucky, and is also part of the group that followed Old Pogue in bringing bourbon-making back to Northern Kentucky. New Riff has also become noted for its spirit of experimentation during its short life, and this Red Turkey Bourbon is an example.

That spirit of experimentation — their “Riffs” — has largely (but not exclusively; see the Backsetters) taken shape in an acute interest in grain stock, seeking out heirloom strains and heavy use of malted rye or wheat. In this instance, they have given wheated bourbon a twist with Turkey Red wheat. This varietal was imported into Kansas in the 1870s by Mennonite Ukrainians, where it thrived. It’s said to produce flavorful, protein-rich bread, but fell out of favor during the Green Revolution of the mid-20th Century, which saw a shift to standard hybrids that maximized yield above all other considerations.

Using this less flavorful wheat has obvious ramifications on a whiskey distillate, especially when it comes to the flavoring grain. The typical bourbon mash draws on three grains: the majority of corn (often yellow distiller’s corn), a small amount of malted barley for the starch-converting enzymes it bears, and a third grain there to add flavor to the corn’s sweetness. It follows that a more flavorful wheat should yield a more wheater-ish new make. New Riff followed through on that idea with an almost high wheat, wheated bourbon: 25% wheat, 70% corn and 5% malted barley.

Like many New Riff expressions, Red Turkey is a bonded whiskey. In keeping with Bottled in Bond statute, this means it is a 100 proof whiskey. This bourbon is stated at least five years old, beyond the minimum four year requirement of bonded whiskeys.

The Bourbon
Sticking to the name, New Riff Red Turkey has a deeply reddened amber appearance in the glass. I found the nose to be like a cordial candy, with center stuffed with thick caramel, vanilla and pear syrup, and a fat cherry. That wheat choice really stands up and speaks to you from the outset in the fruity side of that aroma.

The palate shows similarly sweet character, while bringing in more elements to achieve balance. The foundation is like a toasted graham cracker dusted with cinnamon and sandalwood, this smeared with caramel and citrus zest. The finish was short, light, and mildly spicy.

For some, that short and light finish will be a drawback, but in my mind a soft, wheated bourbon shouldn’t run on and on. Instead, this bourbon is a delicious, easy sipper that puts an interesting twist on what would otherwise be a familiar, standard bourbon flavor.

The Price
This bottle should cost you just $50.