Four Roses Small Batch Bourbon Review (2024)
By Richard Thomas
Rating: A-
(Credit: Four Roses)
Both as an enthusiast and as a writer, I’m grateful that not all of American Whiskey’s annual bottle hunter targets come out in the white hot autumn release season. Summer, for example, sees the release of the very popular Four Roses Small Batch Limited Edition. This year’s release is a blend of 31% of 12 year old OBSV; 23% of 15 year old OESK; 39% of 16 year old OESF; and 7% of 20 year old of OBSV. This year’s is bottled at 108.2 proof, with a production run of 16,680 bottles.
For those who aren’t die-hard Four Roses fans, that combination can tell us much before the first vapors reach the nostrils. First, since I consider 12 to 15 years to be middle aged for American whiskeys, that technically makes 16 years and older ultra-aged. So this is entirely middle aged or older, with the single largest constituent being (barely) ultra-aged. Next, OB refers to the high rye mash bill at the distillery (60% corn, 35% rye, 5% malted barley) and OE refers to the more traditional mash bill (75% corn, 20% malted barley and 5% malted barley).
The final letter in the code refers to the yeast used. Two of the most popular formulations at Four Roses are strongly present in this Small Batch, OBSV and OESK. This pair are known for being fruity, creamy and a little spicy for the former and boldly spicy for the latter. OESF is more often used as a flavoring element in Four Roses concoctions, and has a minty, more herbaceous spicy character.
Finally, unless I am mistaken I believe this is the 17th installment of the Small Batch LE series.
The Bourbon
The nose came at me as two distinct currents intertwined, rather than a blending of them. I describe it that way because pulling those two aspects came apart on the senses quite readily. The former was bright, sweet and fruity, like a more complex take on Juicy Fruit gum. The latter was dry and spicy, and the two strands were girded by cedar.
The palate is quite distinct from that nosing, turning away from gum and towards graham crackers, bringing all the elements into the same pot. Brown sugar leads the sweetness, supported by caramel. The spicy side leads with ginger, supported by cinnamon. All this is on the cracker, which has a bit of earthy cocoa flavor to it. That flavor is a touch musty and has cedar shavings all about it. The finish runs spicy while turning more clove and cinnamon.
The Price
Officially, this bottle goes for $220. Good luck in finding it for sale at that price point, as the market value for this item is approximately double that.
