Elijah Craig Barrel Proof Bourbon Review (2019)

Updated November 12, 2019

By Richard Thomas

Rating: A-

Elijah Craig Barrel Proof Bourbon
(Credit: Heaven Hill)

Although there is a lot of enthusiasm for Elijah Craig Barrel Proof, I’m sometimes surprised to discover that some folks tend to think each batch is basically the same. However, like Booker’s, the expression was never made to a consistent flavor profile, like a purist’s ideal of a cask strength Elijah Craig 12 Year Old. There has been quite a bit of variation over time, and this year’s first batch of Barrel Proof (A119) is as good a case in point as any. Point blank: I loved the stuff.

The Bourbon
The bourbon has a balanced, but still dark and deep amber coloring in the glass. Coating the interior of the glass left behind a couple of finger-like spreads of thick tears.

This batch was very high octane at 67.6% ABV (135.2 proof), and consequently the nose was a little hot. The wonder wasn’t the heat, but that there wasn’t more of it! Even so, it called for a splash of water. That done, the nose came across as musty and woody. This aspect was stronger than the candy corn and vanilla sweetness, but not so much so that it was truly oaky. Rounding the picture out were helpings of nutmeg and mint, plus the barest pinch of dill.

The flavor flipped the nose. Molasses, vanilla, cinnamon and a pinch of chili powder lead the way in a concoction that is primarily sweet, but with a kick of hot spices. Behind and around that is a character-building note of earthy cocoa and wood. The finish is surprisingly light, and brings out a wonderful balance between the sweet and the woody sides of the bourbon for a long closing.

Addendum for B-519

Rating: B+

We’ve been experimenting with Elijah Craig Barrel Proof’s reviews by putting all the releases for a given year in one place; unlike our regular addendums, this entry receives its own grade rather than taking an aggregate, because the review covers multiple items in a series, not the same item multiple times.

This time EC BP came in at a modest (for the brand) 122.2 proof. The flavor profile sat squarely within the traditional bourbon zone of vanilla, caramel, brown sugar and oak, but with some dried apricot and orange zest thrown in for good measure. The finish jinked away from the fruitiness, diving headlong into an oak forest.

Addendum for C-919

Rating: B

The September 2019 release for Elijah Craig Barrel Proof came out as the strongest since January 2016, a whopping 136.8 proof. So, I gave it a whiff to measure the heat and put a moderate splash of water in. That it would need it was beyond question; in fact, it needed another!

Even before the water went in, though, the liquid had a surprising color: mid-amber. One usually expects a darker whiskey from something so potent and middle-aged. Coating the glass left handfuls of streaking legs.

Even with all that water turning down the heat, this was still a bourbon that led with spiciness and woodiness, but not so much that the sweet brown sugar and vanilla core was overwhelmed. In fact, with some air I found the wood in the scent developed a marginally nutty character. Even so, this was a predominately spicy nose for me. On the palate, the sweet caramel comes across much more strongly, taking the lead, with the spicy and woody aspects falling back and balancing the whole. The finish was surprisingly light, and that spicy, but closed with plenty of warmth.

Overall, I just felt the potency and heat were too much, and even with water dialing down the actual heat, the bourbon was smothered. Sometimes too much of a good thing is just plain too much.

The Price
Bottles of Elijah Craig Barrel Proof typically fetch about $90 these days, although they are officially priced at $60.