The Whiskey Reviewer A World of Whiskey, Poured Every Weekday
By Elizabeth Emmons
Rating: B+
Earlier this year, I wrote a review of Starward’s Solera, which sparked a newfound interest for me in this Australian distiller. As I have a penchant for cask strength, and I was pleasantly surprised with my recent foray into this brand from down under, there was little risk in trying the Starward Astor Barrell release, bottled exclusively for Astor Wines in New York City. This is Starward’s first Single Cask Release in North America. This release was filled in 2016, bottled in 2019, and there are only 380 bottles in total. The whisky has been matured in a single charred French oak cask that previously held red wine from the Australian vintner, Penfold’s Grange, which produces wine that is coveted and collectible.
The Whisky
The whisky appears dark and sherry-like in the bottle, one of those whiskies for which you eagerly anticipate the viscous consistency and full mouthfeel.
The nose of this whisky has many layers. First, it comes off as quite woody, with paint thinner notes (not a bad thing) and almond oil, but distinct notes of vanilla, crème brûlée, maraschino cherries, and port quickly take center stage after a few more sniffs.
Due to the high alcohol content of this release (55.4% ABV), the first sip is immediately overwhelmed by spice and heat, but quickly settles down to rum raisin, clove, and nutmeg. There is also a fruity, jammy quality to it that is hard to place but it is closest to cranberry due to the bright astringency. After a few sips, you forget you are drinking something over 110 proof; this whisky manages to achieve a delicacy despite its high alcohol content. On the bottle, the finish is described as “bright, dry, and tannic”, which is not inaccurate; however, it is a slow burn, with many flavors along the way (buttered popcorn, sweet spiced walnuts), ultimately concluding with something mildly tannic and a little bitter. It does not scream “red wine cask!” like many whiskies aged in this manner do. I tried it with a few drops of water and much prefer it without water; the water brings the bitter qualities to the forefront and suppresses the other characteristics.
As I felt with the Solera, the flavor of this release belies its actual maturation time in the cask. This is once again likely due to the fact that Melbourne’s unique climate causes whisky to age more rapidly, so a 3 year old whisky could taste like a whisky aged 5-7 years.
One cannot really say whether the Solera or the Astor Cask is better because they are so different. Certainly, the Solera may be easier to drink simply because the alcohol content is lower, but both have a unique depth of flavor and are worth a try. I imagine the Solera to be a part of your evening lineup along with a handful of others, whereas the Astor Cask could be treated like a digestif due to its strength and intensity and its dessert-like qualities.
The Price
$84.96, and since this particular release is only available through Astor Wines, that is a solid number. Other Starward single casks with different buyers may vary.
