King of Kentucky Bourbon Review
By Richard Thomas
Rating: A-
(Credit: Brown-Forman)
American bottle hunters should keep their eyes open this month, because Brown-Forman will be distributing a new bourbon. This one is simultaneously the first installment of a new annual series; a revival of an old brand name; and their most expensive (in terms of recommended retail price) bourbon release to date. It’s called, appropriately enough given that last point, King of Kentucky.
The original King of Kentucky was introduced in 1881. Brown-Forman picked the brand up in 1936, following Prohibition. At that time, shuttered distilleries and the brands they once produced were being traded about like so many baseball cards. They took King of Kentucky and brought it back as a blended whiskey, which it remained until it was discontinued in 1968,
That doesn’t sound very regal, but the new King of Kentucky iteration has a better pedigree. It’s a single barrel, cask strength bourbon, made at the Brown-Forman distillery in Louisville from their 75% corn, 11% rye, 10% malted barley mashbill. This year’s batch is a 14 year old coming from 16 barrels, yielding about 960 bottles.
The Bourbon
King of Kentucky has a mid-amber coloring in the glass, not as dark as I might expect from a fairly old, cask strength bourbon. I’m not actually sure how strong my particular sample was; the 2018 batch ranges from 125 to 135 proof, and mine bore no indication of what barrel it was from or what the ABV was. Anyway, it wasn’t as dark as I would expect from a 62.5%+ ABV, 14 year old whiskey. The liquid was, however, quite thick. It stuck to the glass, forming a crown of beads that dropped small tears reluctantly, and these were quite slow.
I found the nose had a demerara sugar sweetness, seasoned with cookie spices, shredded coconut, a few drops of vanilla extract and some musty oak. It would be a bit like a trip to the bakery when cookies were in the oven, except for that woody current. The scent was striking in how not-hot it was, once again a surprise for a high octane bourbon.
The palate, however, was hot, so in went a splash of water. One splash was enough to dial the whiskey down to a tasteful level. I found the wood-influences predominated, with wood spices, oakiness, a touch of pepper and astringency standing center stage. Full on brown sugar, vanilla and that coconut note stood around and on the sides. The finish went down with a touch of vanilla and a light, persistent woodiness.
If you’re asking whether you should pick up a bottle of King of Kentucky (see the price below), my answer is yes under two conditions: 1) you like your bourbon woody; 2) you can snag it for something like the recommended retail price.
The Price
King of Kentucky is supposed to go for $199. Of course, there are unscrupulous retailers that will mark this up substantially, sight unseen, hoping someone will pay it.
Great review! I hope to find this close to retail. I can’t afford and wouldn’t pay substantially more: a bottle of a Four Roses Limited Edition is sitting in the back room of my local package store for $999! I have a feeling this might be close to retail since (at least in my part of CT) Brown Forman and Wild Turkey are not ‘in’ brands.
I’ve heard some very poor reviews of this bourbon.
Probably from folks who don’t like their bourbon oaky. I can easily see that and make a point of saying so.
Well, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I purchased a bottle this week from a seasoned bourbon lover who said without hesitation, “This is the finest bourbon I have had…and I’ve had many.” Keep in mind this is a high proof single barrel release, so nose and flavor will vary among bottles. It is a historically important release.
I bought a bottle today from a local bourbon collector who has had many pours of this bourbon, and has two bottles himself. He is trying to amass more. He flatly claimed without hesitation, “This is the best bourbon I’ve ever had…and I’ve had many.” Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, so to speak. I’ve yet to read one online review rating this bourbon as poor. I’m glad to have found one.
I need some help.
Kok 2021 release. Barrel 16, 43/82, proof is 132.5.
I cannot find this bottle anywhere. Is there a reason?
Thanks
With something that specific, it’s possibly because they simply aren’t out there. Some retailers have 2021 KoK advertised (in the $3000 to $4000 range, ugh), but I don’t know if it is that particular barrel.