The Whiskey Reviewer A World of Whiskey, Poured Every Weekday
By Richard Thomas
Rating: A
Wemyss Malts Spice Chocolate Cup Single Cask Scotch
(Credit: Wemyss Malts)
In addition to its regular vatted malt whiskeys, Wemyss Malts periodically releases limited edition, single cask scotches based on special finds from distilleries around Scotland. Spice Chocolate Cup is part of the summer 2013 release, and a prominent part at that.
The scotch was distilled in 1997 (making it a 16 year old) at the Highland distillery Clyneish, a distillery with an identity problem. The source of this whiskey is the Clyneish opened in 1968, right next door to the original Clyneish that closed its doors some years before. The source of the confusion is that the original, older distillery was reopened as Brora in 1969. As a result, from time to time observers confuse Brora (old Clyneish) with Clyneish (new). Clyneish proper is both the source for the barrel that gave us Wemyss Spice Chocolate Cup, and a major contributor to Johnnie Walker Gold Label.
The Scotch
Like all the Wemyss single casks, Spice Chocolate Cup is bottled at 46% abv. This particular expression consists of 302 bottles.
The Highlands are a very large scotch region, boasting a long list of distilleries. So, while the signature notes of the Highlands are deep, full-bodied flavors with an emphasis on peat and smoke, the region is varied enough to go in just about any direction. Spice Chocolate Cup is a good example of that variety, because full-bodied it might be, but peaty it is not.
In the glass, the whiskey has the straw color of a robust white wine, but with a special shiny aspect that glistens more than the usual scotchy white wine coloring. The aroma is of tart apples with ginger and cinnamon, partially balanced against a musty, earthy note hovering just behind it.
The flavor flips the nose on its head, with the earthiness coming to the forefront, and bringing along a dry wood note. The tart, fruity sweetness is still there, but the ginger spice bleeds into pepperiness. With so much boldness in the nose and palate, the finish is something of a surprise: light, only moderately warm, and with a lingering pepper afterglow, winding down into an earthy cocoa aftertaste.
Spice Chocolate Cup has a bold and contrasting personality. Whenever one aspect of the whiskey clearly occupies center stage, it takes up enough room to shine without dominating the other side of the experience.
The Price
Wemyss Spice Chocolate Cup is listed at $150, although you may find it marked up by the retailer.
