Clermont Steep American Single Malt Whiskey Review

By Richard Thomas

Rating: B-

Clermont Steep American Single Malt
(Credit: Richard Thomas)

Although some folks think malt whiskey is a thing best left to the Scots, Irish and the rest of the world, and Americans ought to stay out of it, the American Single Malt is on the precipice of becoming a thing. The American Single Malt Whiskey Commission is now very close to seeing their vision enshrined in Federal regulations, as the TTB is considering giving their category and its definitions the force of law.

But perhaps at least as important, in terms of American malts becoming a thing, is their embrace by the big distillers. Malt whiskey had been the playground of craft and mid-sized distillers, the sector the big boys weren’t in. That scarcely changed even after Woodford Reserve Straight Malt Whiskey was introduced, because as a “Kentucky style malt” with a 51% malted barley mash bill, it was malt whiskey without being single malt whiskey.

That changed last year with two major new releases: Jack Daniel’s entered the sector with its American Single Malt, while Jim Beam introduced Clermont Steep.

Just because Clermont Steep is a single malt doesn’t mean it is merely made from all malted barley.

Borrowing a page from American craft distillers (who are heavily influenced by the craft beer sector rather than Scotland), Beam devised a mash of 80% standard barley malt and 20% golden pilsner barley malt. Although this is the first full single malt of Beam’s in regular release, their malt whiskey stock has made appearances in past Little Book releases, so we knew Beam was making the stuff. Clermont Steep is a project of Freddie Noe, Jim Beam’s 8th Master Distiller and basically co-distiller and lieutenant of his father Fred Noe. It’s five years old, aged in new oak barrels (toasted, charred to a modest Level 1) and bottled at 47% ABV.

The Whiskey
The whiskey has a mid-amber coloring. The nose reminds me of porridge flavored with brown sugar, vanilla and cocoa powder. On the palate, the whiskey has a silky texture and a light body. The porridge-like character continues, but it’s sweeter on the tongue than the scent suggested. The notes remain largely the same, but with a mild, vague herbaceous quality replacing the cocoa powder earthiness. The finish goes down sweet and mildly tannic, as if you’d taken a sip on some tea that has been so over-sweetened with honey that it’s like 1/5 honey, 4/5s tea.

The Price
A bottle of this whiskey will set you back $60.