The Whiskey Reviewer A World of Whiskey, Poured Every Weekday
By Richard Thomas
Rating: A-
Virginia Distillery Port Cask Whisky
(Credit: Richard Thomas)
If you’ve ever seen the label of a Virginia Distillery Company whisky and observed the “Virginia-Highland” reference, you might have thought it a reference to the distillery’s location. Virginia Distillery is located between Charlottesville and Lynchburg, after all, in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains.
You would, however, be mistaken. One of the most interesting aspects of Virginia Distillery is it’s stake in blending it’s own in-house American single malt whisky with malt whisky imported from Scotland. This isn’t a unique practice in the United States, but Virginia Distillery is in a class of their own for building their entire line around it.
Indeed, one could argue this Old Dominion distillery is the most Scottish-influenced distillery in America. Not only do they incorporate Scottish malt whisky into their products, but their in-house whisky is made using Scottish-built pot stills.
Their Port cask finished whisky is described as their flagship expression, and the current batch is their fifth. It was finished in Virginia Port casks from King Family Vineyards and Veritas Vineyard for over 10 months, and consultant Nancy Fraley was involved in the blending. It has been bottled at 92 proof (46% ABV).
The Whisky
In the glass, the whisky is so coppery in color that it looks like the flashing metal I was working with earlier today. A swish reveals a viscous liquid, one that forms a solid crown and leaves a scattering of slow-moving tears.
My nosing took in raisins and dried currants, with a handful of straw, a dollop of vanilla and a pinch of baking spices. A sip showed the whisky to have a soft, silken texture, and yielded the sweet stuff of ruby, fruity Port along with toffee and vanilla at first. Then straw and baking spice was thrown on top of this, which was in turn subsumed by a toasty, almost smoky flavor. This last part disappeared briefly on the finish, turning to tobacco leaf, before once again running to toasted oak.
This Virginian-Scottish hybrid makes for a fascinating dram, and if I ever get to meet Fraley I am certain to compliment her on it. Although no particular stage of the tasting experience shows extraordinary depth, it’s evolution is quite sophisticated. It’s a lovely pour, and for the asking price a genuine steal as well.
The Price
A 750 ml bottle costs $57.49.
walked unexpectedly into a ‘tasting’ at a small beverage store and liked it well enough to spring for a bottle to go – have tried it twice since and give it a B+ for the time being – a bit sweet but that goes well quickly (I tend to like peaty backgrounds) – can truly recommend it to my friends