The Whiskey Reviewer A World of Whiskey, Poured Every Weekday
By Richard Thomas
Rating: A-
Single Malts of Scotland Ledaig 14 Year Old Single Malt
(Credit: Elixir Distillers)
ImpexBev has recently imported a slate of Scottish bottlings from Elixir Distillers, among them a Ledaig 14 Year Old single malt. The distillery it comes from is one of the oldest in Scotland, predating the broader legalization of whisky distilling in Scotland in the 1830s. Erected in 1798, Ledaig’s name was changed to Tobermory in the early 20th Century.
Tobermory’s malts are usually made with unpeated barley, but the water used at the distillery–the Mishnish Loch–is noted for being rich with peaty phenols. This bottling, however, is from stock made in 2005 with peated barley; in essence, it doubled down on the peat, albeit from different directions. It was aged in a Sherry butt, which yielded a run of 607 bottles at cask strength of 55.4%.
The Scotch
A pour of this Islands region whisky takes on a coppered look in the glass, more reminiscent of a rye than the usual Scotch malt, a look attributable to the cask and the cask strength bottling. The scent is immediately speaks to both the region and the wood: malty honey, butterscotch, cinnamon and creosote in equal measures.
The flavor leans a little more towards the stereotype of Islay (although the only way to get that stereotype would be to blend three or more Islay whiskies). Sweet and spiced with cinnamon and white pepper, it wouldn’t be accurate to say it has a whole foot in the peat… but all five toes of that foot for sure. The finish rolls off the spiciness, which fades away to leave a lasting impression of ash.
Although too measured and balanced to be called a peat bomb, this is a charming bottle that cannot fail to satisfy any well-rounded peathead.
The Price
Expect to pay about $130 for this in the U.S. All listings in Europe were either out of stock or of the earlier Douglas Laing bottling of a 14 Year Old Ledaig, that one being of a different character to boot.
