The Whiskey Reviewer A World of Whiskey, Poured Every Weekday
By Richard Thomas
Rating: A-
Elijah Craig Barrel Proof Bourbon
(Credit: Heaven Hill)
I write this review on what has been an emotionally tortured week for America at large (the Brett Kavanaugh hearings), but also a sad one for bourbon enthusiasts, particularly the enthusiasts of Kentucky. Heaven Hill, makers of Elijah Craig Barrel Proof, announced they were discontinuing the classic Heaven Hill 6 Year Old Bottled in Bond. This Kentucky-only expression was arguably the ultimate bang-for-your buck bargain, an item that every bourbon lover visiting the Commonwealth was well-advised to pick up and take home with them (by the case, really, given how cheap it was).
Now it’s gone. But you can commiserate by picking up the latest batch of Elijah Craig Barrel Proof, which is excellent.
The Bourbon
Bottled at 131.4 proof, the September 2018 Elijah Craig Barrel Proof is actually not as dark as I was expecting in the glass. It had a coppered look, and the swish and coat left clusters of tiny legs rolling down the glass.
The scent was one of spice and cedar with a note of wet char, and just a hint of vanilla sweetness. It was also a little hot (not surprising at 65.7% ABV!), so in went some water. That brought still more char up, and more vanilla along with it. So yes, absolutely, splash this whiskey with water.
From that start, the flavor was a sea change. The light and creamy mouthfeel gave way to brown sugar and vanilla—the sweet side of bourbon ascendant—with notes of rye spice, wood spice and a sliver of cedar. The finish was modest after that one-two punch, bring just a bit spicy.
The Price
Elijah Craig Barrel Proof should go for $79.99. Beware of unscrupulous retailer mark ups, though.
