The Whiskey Reviewer A World of Whiskey, Poured Every Weekday
By Andrew Graham
Rating: B+
Bushmills Rare Cask 29 Year Old PX Sherry Finished Irish Whiskey
(Credit: Bushmills)
Bushmills released the second installment of its renowned Rare Cask series in May, nearly 20 months after the inaugural Rare Cask expression was released in October of 2020.
It’s worth comparing the specs on this expression with those of the first Rare Cask installment. Whereas the first Rare Cask release was a 28 year old expression that spent 11 years maturing in ex-Oloroso sherry casks and bourbon barrels before marrying and having a secondary maturation of 17 more years in Cognac casks, the newest installment was distilled in 1992, put into ex-bourbon barrels, and re-casked in 2004 in ex-Pedro Ximenez Sherry casks.
This bourbon-to-sherry aging sequence is more familiar than what Bushmills put out for the 2020 release. This year’s installment is also higher proof, 53% ABV compared to 46.7% in 2020, and more expensive ($900 and up vs. $500 MSRP). Both are made from 100% Irish malted barley.
The Whiskey
The 2022 Rare Cask installment has a striking caramel brown color and its aroma fills a small room from the glass. On the nose, I found notes of sweet cream, mascarpone, and caramel, like if you put an entire Frappuccino in a blender and carried it into the lobby of a toffee factory. There’s a bit of orange peel and sourdough to it, too. This description probably makes it out to be sweeter-smelling than it actually is—the notes are more rich and filling than they are sweet. This smells like something you’d want to bake.
On the palate, I got flavor notes of stone fruit, white pepper, oak, hints of tobacco and leather — and a pretty sizable dose of menthol. The finish is lasting and substantial.
In my 2020 review of the first Rare Cask installment, I called that effort “a dizzying and phenomenal dram.” It had a ton going on flavors-wise and was incredibly balanced. This one doesn’t quite duplicate that effort. It’s still great to drink, with a striking nose and warm, lasting finish. It’d go great with (or as) dessert. But I found the mint flavor note to be a bit distracting and out of place—for me, it didn’t add anything to the dram.
I suppose that particular flavor my palate registered could be attributable to the high proofing, but I generally find expressions on the lower end of the ABV spectrum to taste overly watered down. Perhaps adding a splash of water to this expression, which I don’t ordinarily do, would have put those menthol notes on the backburner or elevated more of what’s on this whiskey’s incredible nose.
The Price
Officially, this should fetch $500. However, some online retailers have it marked up all the way to $1,700, so buyer beware.
