The Whiskey Reviewer A World of Whiskey, Poured Every Weekday
By Richard Thomas
Rating: B
Bernheim Barrel Proof Wheat Whiskey
(Credit: Richard Thomas)
At my book launch late last year, I was asked what brand was overdue for a cask strength version. Without even a moment’s pause, I said “Bernheim.” Heaven Hill released the cask strength version of its seminal Elijah Craig Small Batch a decade ago, in 2013. Back then, both the Small Batch and Barrel Proof expressions were 12 years old; today, only the Barrel Proof remains so. Their wheated bourbon, Larceny, got the cask strength treatment, followed in 2020.
In terms of good candidates for a third cask strength brand extension, that left just Bernheim and Rittenhouse, and Rittenhouse already has a high octane version. Strictly speaking, Pikesville Rye isn’t cask strength and it’s not named Rittenhouse, but it is pretty strong (110 proof) and made from the same stock. If you want a more robust Heaven Hill rye, an option has been there for years.
Bernheim Original Wheat Whiskey was first introduced in 2005, and at the time it was the only wheat whiskey in regular release in the world. While other wheat whiskeys have come along since, they emerged with and from America’s small distilling sector. The other big distillers have shown little interest in diving into wheat whiskey. Bernheim stock has been used to release middle aged wheat whiskey for Parker’s Heritage in 2014, and then more recently for a Heavy Char version. Moreover, the age statement on Bernheim Original was added in 2014. All told, it is well past due for a barrel proof version.
The Whiskey
Bernheim is made with a Kentucky-style, high corn mash bill of 51% wheat, 37% corn and 12% malted barley, and this inaugural batch came out at 118.8 proof. The color of my pour was polished bronze.
The scent came across to me as floral in the vein of fruit tree blossoms, with an herbaceous, minty strain of spiciness and oodles of caramel. That caramel leads on the palate, with the main body of the flavor delivering a hefty serving of doughy, cookie-like quality. Again, the spicy current is quite minty, and now the fruitiness comes across as a light brushing of lemon zest. The finish is surprisingly light for such a potent whiskey, being minty in the main, and it fades fast.
The Price
Expect to pay $65.
