The Whiskey Reviewer A World of Whiskey, Poured Every Weekday
By Richard Thomas
Rating: A-
Four Roses 135th Anniversary Small Batch Bourbon
(Credit: Kirin)
For its 16th release of the annual limited edition of Four Roses Small Batch, the Lawrenceburg, Kentucky distillery is also marking its 135th brand anniversary. That’s right: although the distillery dates to 1910 (and is thus a historic site in its own right), the brand goes all the way back to 1888. For this noteworthy event, Small Batch 2023 incorporates some of the oldest bourbon the company has ever used to make anything.
That oldest ever liquid is a 25 year old OBSV, making up some 5% of the blend. The rest of the bourbons used cover more familiar ground for the Four Roses diehard: 14 year old OESK (40%), 12 year old OESV (35%) and 16 year old OESV (20%). The result was bottled at 108 proof, with a production run of just a hair over 15,000 bottles.
The Bourbon
Despite it’s well-aged pedigree and relatively high proof, the pour takes on a bright, middle amber look. In fact, that look seems to be present in the bottle too, if the pictures are anything to go by, but I haven’t actually laid eyes on a full bottle in person.
My nosing of the Small Batch led with butterscotch and toasted graham crackers, but a potent current of oak, vanilla and baking spices ran hard up behind it. Repeated nosing drew out a modest note of apple, which combined with the other elements makes it kind of like a dish of baked apple with butterscotch drizzle and graham cracker crumble, served in warmed oaken bowl.
The palate follows in much the same vein, but the apples are joined by a pairing of coconut and almond notes. Again, these fruity and nutty elements are not there in the forefront, and require some chewing and chasing to bring out. When I added some ice later on, I found the chill and water brought the caramelized aspect of the bourbon out more. The finish opens with cinnamon and nutmeg, fading to oak.
I didn’t come away thinking this particular Four Roses Small Batch LE had oodles of wow factor, but it brought together its various elements into a well-balanced, well-developed package, and showcases what middle aged Four Roses recipes are all about very well. It goes without saying that Four Roses fans should chase after a bottle ardently, but as for bourbon enthusiasts more generally… well, for this summer limited edition release period, if you can only afford to snag one bottle, I can’t say if this should be the one because I haven’t tried the 2023 Parker’s Heritage yet. It’s a contender, but not a knockout champion.
The Price
Officially, this bottle goes for $199.99.
