The Whiskey Reviewer A World of Whiskey, Poured Every Weekday
By Richard Thomas
Rating: B
Bruichladdich Re/Define Eighteen
(Credit: Bruichladdich/Remy Cointreau)
For the whole of the 21st Century, Islay distillery Bruichladdich has been defined by its 1994 closure. Many Scottish distilleries have been closed and reopened, but those closures are often a matter of history and have little or no impact on the whiskies available today. Bruichladdich’s seven year gap is different, precisely because it is so modern. Compounding the impact of that gap is that Bruichladdich was restarted as a stand-alone venture, and not part of a cluster or collection of distilleries. Consequently, the focus for the company would be entirely on the one distillery and its brand.
So, Bruichladdich’s modern products fall into two broad categories: the traditional, very aged “before closure” malts (such as the Black Arts; and the grain-driven, often younger “after closure” malts. However, the distillery has now been back in production for twenty years, and therefore has the stocks of whisky to begin venturing into (what is for Scotch) some middle aged territory. Hence this new release, Re/Define Eighteen.
Most of the stock used was in ex-bourbon barrels, with a smattering of Port and Sauternes casks. It is bottled at a rather American 50% ABV.
The Scotch
The pour has a rich, gold coloring in the glass, and a nose that serves up honey roasted cereals and a bowl of fruit cocktail on a rough platter of oak. The sip has a rich, thick texture to it, and adds a spoonful of cinnamon and ground clove and a butterscotch drizzle into the elements found in the scent.
The finish scrapes all that off the top of the oak platter, leaving just wood with a couple of flecks of white pepper. However, I did find that after a couple of sips a lovely pipe tobacco note developed on the finish as the wood pepper faded away, extending things and giving that finish some added character.
Up to the finish, I found the Eighteen to be good, but underwhelming. It’s supposed to be an 18 year old single malt drawn from the choice grains that have made the youthful Bruichladdich offerings so worthy all these years, but there are many 18 year old malts and blends with more to offer. The finish was arguably the most interesting part. I should repeat this point for clarity: I did not dislike it, but I expected somewhat more from it all things considered, and found the whole thing to be average for its class.
The Price
Recommended pricing is $179 or £150.
