On The Road At Houston’s Julep

By Randall H. Borkus

I found myself on business in “Space City,” Houston, Texas, with one day for work plus a day off to follow, so I naturally devoted some time to exploring the whiskey bar options. What I found is Houston has numerous whiskey bar options, but the saloon that caught my eye was Julep, partly because it was within striking distance from the Taste of Texas Steakhouse, where I had already decided to have my dinner.

Opened in 2014 on Washington Avenue in a renovated industrial building, Julep’s comfortable space comes complete with lace curtains and a large porch for lounging and cigar smoking, weather permitting. This bar has a girlie feel, and attracts a youthful cocktail crowd (or such was the case at on a Wednesday night).

What really caught my eye, however, was the claim on the web Julep spirits menu that for $250 I could imbibe either a Pappy Van Winkle flight of “five half-ounce pours” or a “one-ounce serving” (equivalent of a dram) of A.H. Hirsch 16 year old.

That sparked a skeptical interest, and I had to see if that offer was fact or fiction. First we had get in the door, and I approached in the dark to find a padlocked door! A little more exploring and I found a sign instructing me to go around back.

I spoke to the bartender and tried to get a whiskey conversation started, but make no mistake, he was a on a busy mission of mixology. I managed to get a few pictures and enjoy an I.W. Harper 15 Year Old (delicious), a half pour of 2015 Angel’s Envy Cask Strength (good, but a little flat on the finish), and the surprise of the night was an Ezra Brooks 12 year old (significant nose, flavorful mouth feel and a bursting caramel delight finish).

Despite these offering and the fabled Pappy and Hirsch, the real focus of the bar is classic Southern cocktails. My research on Julep told me that owner and noted bartender Alba Huerta adds some historical context to the drinks she serves, including a milk punch that’s made with real sour apple cider the “non-alcoholic way they used to make it for kids,” and rumor has it that there is a rye version for the grownups.

Her Sazerac is enhanced with some Marie Duffau Napoleon Armagnac, and the “Truth & Slant” is made with Madeira, a fortified wine that was made famous among Southerners.  It’s clear that she has looked to her Southern pantry to integrate a sophisticated vibe, historical flavors and ingredients all to create a fun place for a real cocktail experience. I was not their target market this Wednesday night yet I found my way and had a good time. And a great assortment of neat bourbon whiskey if your called to it!