The Whiskey Reviewer A World of Whiskey, Poured Every Weekday
By Richard Thomas
Rating: A-
Barrell Bourbon Batch 015
(Credit: Richard Thomas)
Another batch of Barrell Bourbon has arrived. Batch 015 is officially a 9 1/2 year old, that being the youngest whiskey used, but some 10 year and 11 year old whiskey is in there too. The stock involved comes from at least two different distilleries, since it was distilled in Tennessee and Kentucky. This batch is cask strength, as always, but this time that came out at a relatively mild 107.6 proof (53.8% ABV).
The Bourbon
The look of this batch, once it is in the glass, is a bright mid-amber, with balanced brown and red coloring and a clear disposition. A swish leaves a thick curtain of legs.
I found the nose smacked of graham cracker pie crust, with strong currents of toasted nuts and brown sugar and caramel running alongside. This big presence was accented with a hint of cedar and a certain wet, earthy note.
The flavor delivers on that preview, but with a twist. The pie crust goes to a plate of graham crackers and ginger cookies, girded with candy corn. Modest notes of dried dark fruit and dry wood surfaced, just before being subsumed by a lapping wave of heat, turning the tasting experience peppery. That last bit was surprising, given that the proof here is below 110, but it disappears with a little water. The finish is sweet spoonbread and clay, like the spoonbread was delivered in raw clay pot, before turning peppery.
Barrell Bourbon batches have been consistently B+ releases in my book, sometimes scoring a little lower, but almost never higher. This one won me over with its cookie character and its hint of earthiness. This holds true despite that it has a hot side at a relatively low proof. Given that the bourbon holds onto all of its character with a little dilution, I strongly recommend picking up a bottle of this now, hanging onto it until July, and then cracking it open for your rocks drinking through the height of summer.
The Price
Barrell Bourbon Batch 015 is holding steady at $79.99 a bottle.
