Wild Turkey Jimmy Russell’s 70th Anniversary Bourbon Review
By Richard Thomas
Rating: B+
Jimmy Russell is one of the living legends of not just Kentucky bourbon, but of world whiskey generally. That legend began 70 years ago, when Russell first began working at what was then called Anderson County Distilling, sweeping floors in 1954. During Russell’s time as an employee, the name would change to J.T.S. Brown & Sons and finally the Austin Nichols Distillery (officially, the plant is still called the Austin Nichols Wild Turkey Distillery today, even if that name is very little used in practice). He became Master Distiller in 1967, four years before the distillery even became the home of the Wild Turkey brand. His son took over in that role in 2015, and now his grandson is being groomed to step up as well. The way we think of core Wild Turkey expressions, such as Wild Turkey 101, Rare Breed and Russell’s Reserve, is very much what Russell made them to be.
Russell never formally stepped down or accepted a title like “Master Distiller Emeritus,” but he is still semi-retired. He still comes out sometimes to greet visitors at the distillery Visitor Center or for events, and he has been memorialized by a number of special released over the years; in 2014, the distillery marked his 60th year with Diamond Anniversary edition bourbon.
They have now marked the 70th anniversary with an eight year old expression of Wild Turkey, and in most respects I think it is more appropriate to the subject than past commemorative bottlings. Those were middle aged and rather expensive, but Jimmy Russell was never fond of whiskey that old and he is best known for expressions that, while undeniably premium in nature, are approachable by the everyman. This platinum expression is therefore more in keeping with Jimmy’s style, and at 101 proof is somewhat reminiscent of the export-only Wild Turkey 101 8 years old.
The Bourbon
In the glass, the whiskey has a bright, middle amber appearance. The nose is thick with cedar, vanilla and toffee, plus traces of baking spices. The flavor profile spins away from that to a large degree, finding its footing right on top of what I think of as benchmark bourbon qualities: caramel, brown sugar, nutmeg and a pinch of cinnamon. That last spice blends into a what is a the distinguishing trait, a modestly dry, woody current. Add to that a little citrus zest, and the profile is complete, with just enough to give it some character away from and above the bourbon stereotype. The finish runs with peppermint and vanilla.
The Price
This one is quite reasonable at $50 a bottle.