The Whiskey Reviewer A World of Whiskey, Poured Every Weekday
By Richard Thomas
This Is Not A Luxury Whisky from Compass Box
(Credit: Compass Box)
Two years ago, independent blender-bottler Compass Box found itself in a tussle with the Scotch Whisky Association (SWA), that industry’s trade association. The company run by crafty Master Blender John Glaser enjoyed a reputation for relating more details about its blending recipes than anyone else in the industry, and was warned about giving out too much information for two whiskies released in late 2015, Flaming Heart and This Is Not A Luxury Whisky.
Compass Box responded in February 2016 by launching a transparency campaign, one that quickly acquired a substantial following and plenty of press. In particular, the call for greater transparency found a natural constituency in the United States, where transparency had long been a key issue in the bourbon enthusiast community. Folks who had little or no interest in Scotch were very interested in an independent company arguing that it should be allowed to detail what whiskies from what distillery are used in its blends.
Although Bruichladdich joined Compass Box, there was little interest in lobbying or effecting greater transparency in the wider Scotch industry. In September 2016, Compass Box admitted defeat. At the time, the SWA was derided by many observers as stodgy and hidebound, if not a tool of the industry’s giants.
Two years later, very changed circumstances have some pundits and many enthusiasts holding different feelings about the SWA. What was once stodgy and hidebound is now a righteous reverence for tradition, and many hope the organization isn’t quite the tool of the industry’s giants as they once thought. The reason: Diageo’s semi-secret plan to loosen up Scotch production standards.
In January, the Wall Street Journal revealed Diageo wanted to age Scotch in ex-tequila casks (which may be worth a try) and to make lower ABV, flavored whiskies (a heresy to purists). Much hooplah was made of this, although as Filipe Schrieberg pointed out for Forbes, the changes in question were not as radical as first billed. Even so, and to the great relief of Scotch enthusiasts, the SWA rejected the proposals of the biggest company in the Scotch business.
Even so, bending some of the SWA’s tradition-based rules may not be off the agenda just yet. Two weeks ago, the second largest company in the Scotch industry, Pernod Ricard, indicated that they too were challenging SWA rules on certain matters and held views similar to Diageo’s. Rules changes that will be viewed with skepticism or disdain by Scotch Whisky enthusiasts will probably come up again, and those enthusiasts will be looking to the SWA to take a stand on the basis of doing things as they have always been done.
The moral here is that while you might not like a specific call made by a regulator, don’t be too quick to question their motives. The same motives will often come back around and surprise you, and bearing a steaming plate of crow to boot.
