The Whiskey Reviewer A World of Whiskey, Poured Every Weekday
By Richard Thomas
Rating: A
Redbreast 28 Year Old Ruby Port Edition Dream Cask(Credit: Pernod Ricard)
The annual Redbreast Dream Cask has become the regular chimera for fans of the Irish single pot still whiskey revival. Every year, Irish Distillers release this ultra-aged limited edition, putting a different spin on it in terms of cask stock or secondary maturation. The production run is always quite small, it’s done in 500 ml bottles (so it never goes on regular retail sale in the United States because the bottle size is against regulation; if you see one here, that was specially and quietly imported by the seller) and frequently it sells out within hours of becoming available. Last year’s PX Edition Dream Cask sold out almost immediately within the Redbreast club, and disappeared rapidly as it appeared in general circulation.
The 2020 release isn’t the oldest in the series, but as a Ruby Port edition it has my special attention (after eight years of living in Portugal, I’m keenly attuned to all intersections of whiskey and Port wine). After primary maturation in ex-bourbon barrels, an Oloroso Sherry cask and a Ruby Port seasoned cask (this one was actually half aged in an old bourbon barrel and half aged in the Port cask, having been transferred in 1995), the pot still whiskey was dumped, married and finished in another Ruby Port pipe. Three of the four casks concerned were distilled in 1991; the aforementioned transfer cask was distilled in 1989.
These casks were specially chosen during the creation of the Redbreast 27 Year Old, released earlier this year as a permanent brand extension. The whiskey was then bottled at 51.5% ABV.
The Whiskey
The pour of this thoroughly matured whiskey has a dulled, brushed amber appearance, and it packs a herbaceous and fruity nose. Rosemary and cedar boughs are balanced against fresh cantaloupe, raisins and dried apricots, vanilla and almond shavings.
A sip of this reveals a rich, smooth whiskey, leading with a spicy, cinnamon-driven twang. Being that is a mixed bowl of raisins, dried blueberries and dried apricots (the melon aspect is gone), along with a light current of sweet, dark and not at all earthy milk chocolate coming on at the back end. The finish grows a little more complex, lingering on with a fruits, spicy and slightly oaky presence.
This is an outstanding whiskey and solid candidate for my Best Whiskey of 2020 pick (I rarely give out that A grade you see above), balancing the character of the cask stock perfectly against the flavor of the well-aged pot still spirit.
The Price
The official price (and what members of the Birdhouse, Redbreast’s fan club) paid is €490. However, past releases are fetching a market value of between $750 and $2,650. Clearly, being in the Birdhouse has its rewards.
