King of Kentucky Bourbon Review (2020)

By Richard Thomas

Rating: A

King of Kentucky
(Credit: Brown-Forman)

I suppose if Brown-Forman was going to bring a new brand into the already packed-thick autumn bourbon release season, reviving King of Kentucky was the best choice they could make. Now it’s in the third year, and it has already built a sterling reputation. The inaugural batch was a 14 year old that earned an A- from us; last year was a 15 year old that also got an A-.

This year’s release consolidates the King of Kentucky line as a middle-aged, single barrel, bordering on ultra-aged cask strength bourbon (14 years old and 136.6 proof for my particular sample), coming out in a small production run of approximately 2,000 bottles. In conversations or correspondences I’ve had with bourbon enthusiasts in the States, among those that I really think know their stuff and don’t let prejudices or hype sway their buying decisions, most have quietly shifted their chips with retailers away from securing a bottle from the Buffalo Trace Antique Collection and towards snagging King of Kentucky.

The Bourbon
The look of this whiskey is the stereotype of what folks think a well-aged, cask strength bourbon ought to be: dark amber, leaning hard to nut brown. After a generous splash of water (just over 68% ABV — of course I put water at the start). The nose smacked of cinnamon graham crackers, maple syrup, plump dried cherries and spearmint.

A sip revealed a silky, sweet bourbon, but one that wasn’t as dark and rich as the nose suggested. A foundation of maple and caramel with cherry jam smeared atop. A further layer of cake spice, nuts and hoary oak slides on top of that on the back end. The finish was a light, but lasting one, leaving just a hint of spicy oak behind.

This installment of King of Kentucky is my favorite yet. It’s flavorful to be sure, but not the full-bodied ball-buster one might expect from something so aged or potent. With some water, it becomes a quite sophisticated pour, the kind of thing to savor for an hour or so, because a sip goes such a long way.

The Price
The recommended retail price for King of Kentucky 2020 is $249.99. Some folks who are really lost in the past balk at that price, but to pick up a bottle from 2018 or 2019 on-demand with internet retailers will run you $1,900. So if you can get it for $250 and can afford that, do it.