The Whiskey Reviewer A World of Whiskey, Poured Every Weekday
By Richard Thomas
Rating: B
Whiskey Del Bac Dorado
(Credit: Richard Thomas)
After a small distiller has been around with their own in-house whiskeys for several years, it can be said their products follow one of two tracks: either they continue to follow their established and time-tested process; or they take advantage of time and experience to evolve. Before my December 2020 interview with Stephen Paul, co-founder of Hamilton Distillers, Paul told me that their whiskey had evolved since they got started in 2011 (we first looked at it in 2015), implying that they were on the latter path. Having revisited their whiskeys, it’s clear these craft distillers from Arizona have grown.
Given that Hamilton Distillers planted their flag in the Southwest and in making American Malt, Del Bac Dorado can be fairly described as their standard bearer. This single malt is made with barley malted with a smoky fire, but instead of using peat in the Scottish fashion, Hamilton draws on a Southwestern resource and burns mesquite wood. It’s a signature of whiskeys from the Southwest, albeit one that when done poorly can come across as acrid. Del Bac is, as you will see, anything but poorly done or acrid.
The Whiskey
A pour of Del Bac Dorado has the look of dulled copper in the glass. Given that Paul drew his inspiration from a love of Scotch whisky, it’s worth noting how much the nose is reminiscent of a lightly peated, Speyside malt. The scent is sweet, blending a malty honey with the vanilla of new oak, and the strength of that vanilla note is the principle thing separating it from the stereotyped Scotch at this point. That is because beyond those two notes is just a hint of smoke, one too subtle to be distinctive.
The palate, on the other hand, has more heft. The flavor profile is a simple and straightforward one, again with the vanilla and the honey. The smoke has a larger presence here, large enough to make it out as the mesquite anyone who has had it at barbecue before, but still relatively moderate. The finish is mild, with a touch of woodiness and smoke. This current iteration of Del Bac Dorado is easy drinking and approachable, enjoyable for smokeheads and a good introduction for beginners.
The Price
Del Bac Dorado officially fetches $59 a bottle, but is more often priced at $63-$65 with retailers.
