The Whiskey Reviewer A World of Whiskey, Poured Every Weekday
By Richard Thomas
Starward Solera
(Credit: Starward)
World Whisky Day, that annual celebration for whiskey-lovers everywhere and of whiskeys made everywhere, is around the corner: the day itself if this Saturday, on May 21. If an enthusiast needs an occasion to venture into unfamiliar territory, this is it, because this is the day to embrace unknown bottles from faraway lands. What follows is a list of the newly released, the exotic, and old reliables from around the globe.
Special Mention: Suntory World Whisky Ao
No other bottles out there as “world whisky” as Suntory’s Ao. Beam Suntory is a global drinks conglomerate, and the Ao blend encompasses much of that worldwide footprint, drawing on five separate stocks from Ardmore, Glen Garioch, Cooley, Jim Beam, Alberta Distillers, Yamazaki and Hakushu. Although there have been other globe-trotting blends before, Suntory World Whisky Ao is that rare example of something that truly deserves the billing unique… for now, anyway.
Australia: Starward Solera Single Malt
This is a 3 year old malt, aged in first-fill barrels used to age Australian aperitif wine and bottled at 43% ABV. If the maturation time doesn’t seem like a lot, remember that this is in the highly variable climate of the region around Melbourne. As with many world whiskies, the seasonal expectations of Scotland or Kentucky just do not apply. It’s a solid, reasonably priced and accessible expression from Down Under.
Canada: Alberta Premium Cask Strength Rye
Alberta Distillers has the reputation of being the MGP of Canada, as it’s rye whisky appears in so many sourced-and-bottled brands across the border in the USA. This expression, quite popular among the cognoscenti, is the best way to get access to the good stuff, straight from the source.
Alberta Premium Cask Strength Rye
(Credit: Alberta Distillers)
India: Rampur Select Single Malt
Rampur Distillery opened in 1943, and for those who know anything about the history of India during World War Two, the idea of a distiller finding grain to operate is simply amazing. Perhaps just as amazing is that us foreigners are only now becoming acquainted with the whiskies of this venerable institution, well after the introduction of relative newcomers Amrut and Paul John to our palates.
Ireland: Killowen Rum & Raisin Single Malt
Strictly speaking Killowen is in Northern Ireland, and thus part of the UK. That said, nobody calls Bushmills “British Whiskey.” This 5 year old malt from one of the newest Irish distilleries, it’s aged in ex-bourbon barrels before receiving a round of finishing in Killowen’s own dark rum casks and Pedro Ximenez Sherry casks.
Japan: Yamazaki 12 Year Old Single Malt
It’s only lately that the supply crunch surrounding Japanese Whisky has begun to ease, and expressions like Yamazaki 12 Year Old became available (sometimes) again. For a long time, you couldn’t get Yamazaki 12–a standard bearer not just for Suntory, but Japanese Whisky as a whole–at even an inflated price. But now I am starting to see it occupy regular spots on store shelves again (albeit behind the locked cabinet for special items). If you see a bottle, grab it and see what the fuss is all about.
Mexico: Abosolo Corn Whiskey
These days, some nice whiskey comes from the most unexpected places. One might wonder why Mexico would bother, but one thing Mexico has more of than anybody else is heirloom varietals of corn. Abosolo is just the first step in exploring the whiskey-making potential of all that corn.
Scotland: Glenfiddich 15 Year Old
The price on this old favorite has gone up in recent years, and it now fetches between $60 and $70 a bottle. But it is still a middle aged single malt classic, created when the legendary David Stewart adapted the solera method to Scotch-making. Solera whiskeys are more common today, but at the time it was a practice predominately associated with Sherry wines, and Stewart’s move was a first for the whiskey industry globally. In theory, every bottle has a tiny bit of Glenfiddich malt dating all the way back to the first charging of Stewart’s solera.
Nelson’s Green Brier
(Credit: Richard Thomas)
Sweden: Mackmyra Grönt Te
Grönt Te translates from Swedish to “green tea,” and that is what was used in making this single malt. Mackmyra follows a familiar path in using ex-Oloroso Sherry casks for aging, but additionally seasons them using Japanese green tea leaves. The result has turned out to be quite a hit among those lucky enough to try it, so if you should see a bottle on a bar or store shelf, order a dram or snag the bottle.
United States: Nelson’s Green Brier Tennessee Whiskey
Unique is a word that is used too freely and often inappropriately, but it applies here. By reaching back to their family’s antique mash bill, the Nelsons have also managed to create something that stands all in its own niche (for now, at least): a wheated Tennessee Whiskey. The notion of taking the softer, more floral qualities often found in wheated bourbon and applying the mellowing technique of the Lincoln County Process to it should make any whiskey lover at least curious. World Whisky Day is as good a time to try it as any.
