The Whiskey Reviewer A World of Whiskey, Poured Every Weekday
By Richard Thomas
Rating: B-
Kings County Distillery
A few years ago, FEW Spirits introduced a novel spin on their bourbon by cutting it with cold brew coffee instead of water. They were followed by a Jameson cold brew whiskey and a few cold brew whiskeys introduced by small distillers around the country. Now Kings County in Brooklyn has joined the cold brew party, partnering with Parlor Coffee.
Cold brew coffee is used in these concoctions because it’s less acidic than the standard coffee brew, and that acidity is prone to foul the taste of the whiskey. This particular version of caffeinated whiskey is said to have 14mg of caffeine per shot (1.5 oz), and the whiskey side of it is a blend of Kings County’s bourbon and corn whiskey. The regular cup of joe packs 16.5 mg into the same volume. Kings County shipped Coffee Whiskey in mid-April, and this entry comes in 750 ml bottles at 40% ABV.
The Bourbon
This pour has a dark coloring that takes it beyond amber to nut brown. That underscores the theme here. I’ve only tried two of these things, but FEW named theirs “FEW Bourbon With Cold Brew Coffee,” while Kings County went with “Coffee Whiskey.” The relative emphasis is right there in the name.
The nose is syrupy, leading with a half-and-half of Hershey’s chocolate and vanilla syrups, with a modest note of tannic coffee grinds underneath. That thick, sweet character continues on into the palate. Kings County compares it with Italian amari, and they have good reason to do so, especially the thicker style of amari. I couldn’t find the signature of the corn whiskey at all, subsumed by the cold brew, which leads the flavor profile by half a foot. The finish sees the sweet, chocolatey side of the coffee swap with the bitter aspect, and that swap takes the bourbon with it.
My confession here is that I’m not a coffee drinker, although I appreciate similar flavors appearing in things like stout and ice cream. I appreciated FEW’s cold brew effort so much because it remained bourbon first and foremost; the coffee was a distinct layer inserted into it. King County’s effort has the two elements of whiskey and coffee as peers, and if one of them is out in front, it’s the coffee.
The Price
Expect to pay about $45 for this caffeinated whiskey.
I was captivated when you mentioned that cold brew coffee is less acidic. My friend wants to taste coffee flavored whiskey. I should advise him to look for a store that blends the flavor of real coffee with the smoothness of premium whiskey.