The Whiskey Reviewer A World of Whiskey, Poured Every Weekday
By Randall H. Borkus
Rating: A-
Whistlepig Beholden
(Credit: Randall H. Borkus)
With the end of the first quarter of 2023, WhistlePig Farm brought the market a new whiskey called “The Béhôlden,” their first ultra-aged single malt. WhistlePig have sourced from Glenora Distillery in Nova Scotia. For those who aren’t familiar with them, they were the first distillery to make single malt in North America in modern times; their initial production run dates to 1990, seven years before even St. George Spirits. The Glenora whisky has been finished in WhistlePig’s own rye barrels.
All the bottles are presented as single barrel offerings, numbered and presented in an ultra-deluxe wooden box. My bottle is number 23 from barrel number 006 at 92 proof in a 750ml bottle.
The Whiskey
This single malt is a beautiful dark caramel color in my glass. The nose is loaded with notes of raisins, butterscotch, maple syrup and sweet cherry extracts hints.
The front palate is malty with a butterscotch custard bomb explosion working its way through my mid and back palates. The finish reminds me first of fresh cut lumber followed with a medley of sweet peppermint and butterscotch with a healthy dryness settling into a peppery fresh earthiness in the back of my throat. This whiskey matches the presentation as it is complex from start to finish.
The more time it spends in glass and with a few drops of water, I am finding hints of candied ginger, cinnamon, earth and fresh nutmeg lingering on my palate. The mouth feel is so buttery, adding a extra satisfying quality to the whiskey. I thoroughly enjoyed The Béhôlden, and it surprised all of my senses.
One might think the rye spice from the barrel would yield something very awkward; however, with this expression it is perfectly balanced with the malt flavors to create a fantastic savory experience. The rye barrel influences are so obvious and add so much to the flavor profile.
The challenge for me now is do just drink the bottle dry of its sophisticated flavors or do I hide it away for only special occasions?
The Price
At the suggested retail price of $799 a bottle and in excess of $1499.99 online, I will keep this bottle on the shelf of distinct bottles banked away exclusively for friends and special occasions.
