The Whiskey Reviewer A World of Whiskey, Poured Every Weekday
By Richard Thomas
Rating: B
Glenglassaugh Portsoy
(Credit: Brown-Forman)
When Brown-Forman bought the BenRiach Group, they acquired not just BenRiach, but also Glendronach and Glenglassaugh. The acquisition marked the first foray into Scotch Whisky for a company best known for Jack Daniel’s, and they’ve stuck with the trio of malt distilleries these last seven and a half years. This past autumn, Glenglassaugh received a facelift and a revamp of its core line, now centered around three single malts: the 12 Year old, Sandend and Portsoy.
The Portsoy single malt is named for a village near the distillery, and is the peated entry of the three. It’s a no age statement (NAS) malt, aged in a mix of ex-bourbon, Sherry and Port casks. It is also bottled at 49.1% ABV, which is high for a Scotch Whisky, which typically tends to peak at 46% ABV unless it is bottled at cask strength.
The Scotch
Portsoy has a light amber coloring in the glass. The nose isn’t quite Islay, nor should it be: the peat of the mainland is noted for burning hotter, and consequently not as smoky, as the peat of the islands. So the coastal saline and smoky influences are more restrained; a base of caramel, licorice and fruity sweetness accented by a briny, soy umami and a whiff of smoke. That umami aspect turns earthy once it gets on your palate, causing some of the other elements to evolve into something more chocolatey along with it. Accordingly, the salty note becomes less sea spray and more artisanal candy.
Peatheads will find Portsoy underwhelming, but the truth is peatheads tend to find peated whiskies from the Highlands and especially Speyside disappointing generally. Yet American drinkers who appreciate good Scotch will find a lot to like here, as it has that whiff of smoke without that overwhelming the other elements of the whisky, and the strength of the liquid is much more in tune with the way we like it on our side of the Pond.
The Price
Officially, this bottle fetches $75.
