Heaven Hill 27 Year Old Barrel Proof Bourbon Review

By Richard Thomas

Rating: A

The big autumnal bourbon releases are usually dominated by annuals, names like Stagg and Van Winkle that have a devoted fan following. Yet each year usually presents one or two one-shot gems, items that are truly limited editions because they don’t come out every year. This year is no exception, and the one-shot release of Heaven Hill 27 Year Old might just be the best bourbon of both the season and the year.

This bottling harks back to before the Heaven Hill distillery and warehouse fire of 1996, an inferno that ranks as one of the worst whiskey disasters of all time. The whiskey was distilled in 1989 and 1990, drawing on a batch of 41 barrels that collectively yielded less than 3,000 bottles. In a twist that will surely leave at least a few shaking their heads, this is a barrel strength release that came out at the relatively low octane level of 94.7 proof (47.35% ABV).

The Bourbon
The whiskey has a clear, middling amber look in the glass, and that is the first hint to its marvelous character. The ultra-aging and words “barrel proof” would suggest a dark amber. But it’s not actually that strong coming out of the barrel, and perhaps that is why the coloring isn’t that deep.

Ultra-aged bourbons are often over oaked, but not this time. I found the nose balanced an aspect of nuttiness and baking spices with oak, brown sugar and vanilla. The profile here is properly stated with a measure of sophistication, neither too loud or too subtle.

After a couple of sips, I found the flavor a bit nuttier, somewhat woodier, and the spicy aspect heating up a bit as it moved more strongly into cloves. Yet despite the bigger body and heavy lean to oak and cloves, Heaven Hill 27 Year Old remains a superbly mellow bourbon. That aspect is what makes it marvelous: it’s ultra-aged, but not overtly oaked, coming out as personable as it is smooth.

Bottom line: pick up this bottle if you can get it at the recommended price, even though that is rather high. If you think ultra-aged bourbon is too oaky and don’t like it, this becomes an even higher priority for you.

The Price
Recommended retail on Heaven Hill 27 Year Old is $399.99.