The Whiskey Reviewer A World of Whiskey, Poured Every Weekday
Updated June 7, 2022
By Father John Rayls
Rating: A-
Hakushu 12 Year Old Japanese Single Malt
(Credit: Beam Suntory)
“From Suntory’s mountain distillery, nestled deep in the forests of Mt. Kaikomagatake, Hakushu is the herbal and gently smoky single malt. Straight from the untouched forests, mountains, and pure waters of the Southern Japanese Alps, it is no wonder that Hakushu is a “green and fresh” whisky, praised by the most curious whisky connoisseurs and lovers of gastronomy. Its crisp and vibrant feel, unique in a single malt, enlivens and liberates your senses.”
A form of this statement appears on every bottle of Hakushu and furthers the idea that this is a very special whisky. It comes from the second Suntory distillery, which was built in 1973 in a remote location at the foot of the southern Japanese Alps. That setting has led it to be called “The Forest Distillery.”
Hakushu’s mountain water source is reputed to provide unusually pure and very soft water, filtered through the ancient granite in and around the area. The Hakushu site is twice the elevation of the highest of the Scottish distilleries (over 700 m/2,300 feet). The original facility was expanded in 1981, and at that time it became the largest distillery in the world. It might still be able to lay claim to that title were the older wing (Hakushu West) not mothballed.
Although Japanese whisky is derived from Scotch, the combination of elements you see at Hakushu explain the noticeably different results. The Japanese are, in case you’ve been living Mars for the last several months, the reigning whisky kings of the world.
The Whisky
The Hakushu (Hack-shoo) 12 year old is an excellent whisky, and I highly recommend it. And that is coming from an admitted bourbon and rye guy!
The single malt is aged in sherry butts, ex-bourbon casks and hogsheads (rebuilt, larger bourbon) casks. The appearance is of golden straw. The nose is somewhat fruity (think apples and mint), and you should definitely get some light smoke with some floral notes.
This whisky is often referred to as “the peated” single malt Japanese whisky, although it blends both peated and unpeated malts. The taste will remind you of honey with wild flowers and light green apple. The legs are long and beautiful to behold, although you get a thinner sensation in the mouth.
The finish is medium short, but this is where you find its smokiness. It’s nothing like what some of the Scots bring to the table, but it’s a nice close to a well rounded experience.
The Japanese often mix their whisky with at least water, soda or ice. However, you may want to put that notion aside and go neat. It’s that good.
The Price
When John wrote this up in 2015, Hakushu 12 was just $75. Now it fetches at least $225.
* Editor’s Note: The Hakushu 12 Year Old should not be confused with the NAS Hakushu Single Malt, typically available only in Japan.
I agree with your review. It is that good!! Unfortunately, it has become so rare (worse than some of the unicorn bourbons out there!). I had the pleasure of running across a bottle and picked one up; the cost is significantly higher than your $75 posted on FY2015 🙂 But it was worth the price, just to have a taste of this rare gem.
All that aside, I rate this on par with Nikka from the Barrel because the hint of peat and the finish are about the same, although Nikka’s ABV is 51% while the Hakushu is 43%. If you see one, grab it!