The Whiskey Reviewer A World of Whiskey, Poured Every Weekday
Updated August 3, 2020
By Andrew Graham
Average Rating: B
Starward Nova
(Credit: Michael Cervin)
An Australian single-malt?! Whiskey drinkers in the United States can be forgiven for not really being up to speed on the drams coming out of the land down under.
The truth is, Australia has a robust whiskey scene, with more than 40 distilleries operating in the country. Some have won major awards, in fact. However, most are small operations, and only a trickle is exported to the United States. Starward, which scored an investment from Diageo back in 2015 (the amount is undisclosed), is the exception, which explains its increasing presence state-side.
Australian whiskey distillers used to mimic Scotch, but now they’ve evidently evolved into a unique style. In a recent profile on Australian whisky, whiskey author and New York Times Deputy Op-Ed Editor Clay Risen took a deep dive into the recent history of the region’s whisky industry.
Risen reported, “Certain shared characteristics emerged that set these distilleries apart from Scottish traditions, like using brewer’s malt instead of distiller’s malt, and aging in smaller casks, both of which affect the whisky’s flavor.”
“Then, in 2014, a single malt from Sullivans Cove, a distillery in downtown Hobart, Tasmania, took the top prize at the World Whiskies Awards, a competition perennially dominated by Scotch. The recognition vaulted Australian whisky into global consumer consciousness, setting off a renaissance in the country’s whisky distilling — and a different way of thinking about the craft.”
The Whisky
For Starward, that way of thinking was to embrace the country’s reputation for wine-making. The whisky, made from a mash bill of 100% Australian barley and bottled at 41% ABV, spends the entirety of its two-year aging period in ex-wine barrels that previously held Australian shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, and pinot noir. Those barrels are filled with the whisky when they’re still wet with wine, and they sit in Melbourne, where the highly variable climate goes to work on the spirit.
This whisky is not bashful about what it is. This tawny-hued malt has a nose of Fruit Loops and cherry jam. My initial reaction was that this is the red wine cask equivalent of a Sherry bomb. The wine flavors dominate, but after the first dram, I did get past the abundance of wine flavor and found flavor notes of Grape Nuts, caramel, and toasted baking spice. The red-fruit flavors linger on the medium finish, which has a rather tannic mouthfeel.
This whisky was made with a specific purpose, and that purpose is to introduce wine fans to whisky. It’s best consumed neat — ice only makes much of its flavor harder to find — and I found it particularly shines when served with dessert.
Addendum by Michael Cervin
There are nearly 300 distilleries in Australia and Starward Distillery, which opened in 2007, operates in Melbourne’s downtown. For all their spirits including the single malt Nova, they use red wine barrels for maturation and claim all their ingredients used for distilling are “a day’s drive away,” indicating everything is local and fresh. That all good and well but the used red wine barrels do not provide enough structure if you’re looking for a traditional single malt expression. Nova comes in at 82 proof.
Color: Amber hued with dark golden highlights – the classic bourbon look. Imagine a deep hued Cognac or brandy with a glistening amber-orange color.
Nose: Butter toffee, caramel, candied amber, orange marmalade.
Palate: This is a multi lateral approach to whiskey. First there is the initial entry of sweetness, candied orange, then comes the wave of alcohol taking over the mid and back palate expressing cigar box, molasses, an almost bitterness tempered with a tinge of sweetness. It suggests restraint and not overt aggression. The mellowness it aims for is discernable, but not in full effect. There is a brightness that hits the mouth and fills the roof of the mouth, which takes you in a different direction, then reminds you that this is still a whiskey. It’s expressive but not fully finished and feels like the finish was rushed, a bit of shock where there should be a relaxing ending. Cutting it solves this issue, be that ice or water, and it makes the finish feel more complete. Nonetheless, the butter toffee, caramel and mandarin orange along with the soft wood do make this enjoyable, though a little simple.
The Price
Starward Nova retails in the U.S. for as little as $50, but some sellers have it marked up to as much as $100. Given that this item is now regularly imported, anyone asking so much as that is not your friend.
