Lock, Stock And Barrel Vatted Rye Whiskey Review

By Richard Thomas

Rating: B

The most approachable of the latest Lock, Stock and Barrel releases (I wrote up their 21 year old rye earlier this month) is their new Vatted Rye. Frankly, I adore the name. It is borrowed from the now outmoded Scotch whisky terminology of referring to a blend of malt whiskies (i.e. no grain whisky included) as a vatted malt. It even has a bottle reminiscent of VAT 69, which in its turn is derived from that brands historical practice of recycling discarded Port wine bottles for its blended whisky.

For its vatted rye, parent company Cooper Spirits has drawn on a four distinct sources: Kentucky, Pennsylvania, Indiana and Alberta. The identities of those rye whiskeys could not be more different. Although Canadian rye is known for being 100% rye whisky, it may be aged in new or used oak. Pennsylvania rye is driven by the Keystone State’s craft distilling sector, and is noted for being no corn and very high in rye content (albeit rarely 100%).

Kentucky rye was originated by bourbon-makers, and is as close to bourbon as one can get while still being rye. Another way to refer to it is as a high-corn rye whiskey, and the rye content hugs the statutory minimum, 51%, required by Federal law. Indiana usually means MGP, the main supplier of aged stock whiskey in America, and their ubiquitous 95% rye recipe. However, we cannot say for sure if MGP was the supplier or only supplier this time, since there are other distillers operating in Indiana nowadays. This is said to draw on stocks from four to eighteen years of age, with a “core” that is nine years old. Specific sourcing and proportions are unknown, but the proof is 100.

The Whiskey
I found the color darker than is typically the case for ryes, which tend to be bronze or copper in appearance. This was light, verging on middle amber. The scent lead with dill, bringing up vanilla, peppermint and nougat behind it. That profile turned about 45 degrees on the palate, losing the dill, gaining some cookie spices and a woody, peppery note, plus a current of citrus, while retaining its vanilla. The finish carries the wood and pepper off its back end, but that fades to leave just a trace of the cookie spices.

The Price
Expect to pay about $85 a bottle for this rye.