Old Pepper FKO Rye Whiskey Review (2019)

By Randall H. Borkus

Rating: B

The historic James E. Pepper Distillery was making bourbon in Lexington, Kentucky until 1958, when production ceased and the brand was abandoned for over 50 years. In December 2017, the new James E. Pepper Distillery (DSP-KY-5) began distilling whiskey again in part of the old building, basing its mash bill on historic recipes and locally grown grains. Located in downtown Lexington, the James E. Pepper Distillery is in the heart of the Distillery District, a revitalized neighborhood featuring bars, breweries, distilleries, restaurants, and more focusing on entertaining visitors.

Today I’m sampling the 2019 Fall release, Old Pepper Rye “Finest Kentucky Oak” (AKA “FKO”) which consists of the company’s flag ship 1776 straight rye whiskey, given a secondary finish in a new Kentucky Oak barrel. The Kentucky Oak staves used for the second barrel are air seasoned for 24 months prior to assembly whereas the industry average is merely 6 months. This additional air seasoning helps to break down the elements in the oak that can cause an astringent taste in a whiskey and also helps free up more naturally occurring vanilla favors. This 2019 new Fall release consists of their standard 3 to 4-year 95% rye whiskey sourced from Indiana, finished in a Kentucky oak barrel that has a heavy toasting and a light char.

The initial 2018 release of this whiskey was very well received, winning double golds at various spirits competitions and an A- from The Whiskey Reviewer. Old Pepper ‘F.K.O.’ is bottled straight from the barrel, uncut and unfiltered, at 116 proof and with no age statement.  My bottle is Batch K02.

The Whiskey
The color of the whiskey is a very dark brown amber and the it boasts oily legs dancing down the sides of my glass. The nose bursts with oak and unique bits of North Dakota dried jerky, plus a cinnamon essence.

The upfront mouth feel is warm and the palate is sharp, dry, oaky, and bold composite of dried fruits and prune overtones. The back end shows up with a fresh earthy-grass kick that dances through my mouth nudging my taste buds with rosemary and black pepper. The finish shows up with a slight touch of dark chocolate, then a burst of an earthy woodshed essence gives way to a traditional rye whiskey dryness. This very much reminds me of Rossville Union Master Crafted Barrel Proof Straight Rye Whiskey (which has the same MGP-made 95% rye source). Overall, this is a nice bottle of rye whiskey, but the competition is thick and for me this is just above average as far as 2019 rye whiskey goes.

The Price
This whiskey is very limited in supply and I see sparingly online from $79 – $99 a bottle.